Well, my time in Uzbekistan has come to end. It's been great, it really has. But at this point I haven't left Central Asia in 6 months and I'm very ready to head home.
My landlord is coming over to get the key in about an hour. I'm not sure what to expect. I mean the apartment is very clean, there's no damage and from what I can tell she's a decent person who wouldn't make ridiculous claims about me breaking things that I haven't. Really though, the only thing that would help me if something did go wrong and we did end up in a conflict over something would be UN Security. And that's one of my, I guess, underlying themes from my time here. People have no fallback, no security blanket. Call the militia? ha! So far there's no move to rename them here like in Russia and, from what I've read at least (I'm sure I'll be corrected if I'm wrong though) in Ukraine.
Flights going west from here tend to leave at odd hours. So I'll have a few hours, as a tourist again, to wander the streets of Tashkent. Then I will go to the airport. Airports in this part of the world are a special kind of hell. I've been to 7-8 of them and Tashkent is the worst, at least coming in. Everytime I've left Uzbekistan it's been overland and even that has been very difficult. For starters exit customs and immigration are ubiquitous in Central Asia. And very thorough. That of course is coupled with officials, who may be looking for a little something extra to help, uh, facilitate your experience. Anyway, it'll be fine, hopefully it's a slow night.
So thank you very much for reading, this will be my last entry. Time to move on with life.
Sunday, August 22, 2010
Saturday, August 14, 2010
Gold Teeth and Construction Projects
Just a couple of quick anecdotes from the past week. As my time in Tashkent comes to a close I find I'm having less and less to talk about. I'm starting to concentrate more on life post-Uze.
One of the Uzbek guys in the office and I had planned to go for dinner yesterday after work. Just after lunch he came to my office and asked if we could postpone till next week. He said he was having some dental work done, it wasn't finished and he was worried about the food damaging the work. Of course I agreed and then asked what dental work he was having done as more than one sitting sounded serious. He's getting 9 new false teeth. 9. The guy is two years older then me. I mean, fair dental care is not as advanced here as it is the west. Uzbekistan is a......developing country and things like going for dental checkups twice per year aren't that high on people's minds when they're just trying to survive. He assured me though that we was not going to get gold teeth, which is what most false teeth are still made of here, and was instead going to get ones that look like regular teeth. So that's progress....I think.
Construction projects can be impressive affairs here. Of course I have no idea as to the quality of the work or the wages paid to the workers, but the sheer number of people assigned to projects is amazing. This afternoon, I was walking by the main theatre in the centre of town. There's a small square to one side that I guess the government decided needed some re-doing. There were hundreds of workers there. This is a square that is not even the size of a typical Canadian city block. And it'll probalby be completely re-made in about 3 days. I just won't be sitting under any new structures that are built on it.
One of the Uzbek guys in the office and I had planned to go for dinner yesterday after work. Just after lunch he came to my office and asked if we could postpone till next week. He said he was having some dental work done, it wasn't finished and he was worried about the food damaging the work. Of course I agreed and then asked what dental work he was having done as more than one sitting sounded serious. He's getting 9 new false teeth. 9. The guy is two years older then me. I mean, fair dental care is not as advanced here as it is the west. Uzbekistan is a......developing country and things like going for dental checkups twice per year aren't that high on people's minds when they're just trying to survive. He assured me though that we was not going to get gold teeth, which is what most false teeth are still made of here, and was instead going to get ones that look like regular teeth. So that's progress....I think.
Construction projects can be impressive affairs here. Of course I have no idea as to the quality of the work or the wages paid to the workers, but the sheer number of people assigned to projects is amazing. This afternoon, I was walking by the main theatre in the centre of town. There's a small square to one side that I guess the government decided needed some re-doing. There were hundreds of workers there. This is a square that is not even the size of a typical Canadian city block. And it'll probalby be completely re-made in about 3 days. I just won't be sitting under any new structures that are built on it.
Saturday, August 7, 2010
Variable Tip Rates, Couchsurfing and Interac Security
"Service" is often included in the bill at restaurants here. It varies from 10-20% depending on the place. During the World Cup the group that I usually spend time with started going to a restaurant called 'SV'. They have a big outdoor patio and during the games put up a big screen, it was very nice and the food was good. We've continued going after the games and, no longer needing a good view of the screen, have started siting on the tapchans, which are basically tables you can lie down on as well. As food is so cheap here we never really spend too much time checking the bill. However, this week some backpackers were staying with one of the group and, being beingpackers, needed to watch their money. Fair enough. One night we ended up at SV and they noticed that while the menu said a 10% service charge would be added to the bill, the bill showed that they had in fact added a 20% charge. Oh Uzbekistan. Anyway, I got to be the one to ask about it and the reason was, 'oh you're in the nice table, so we add more of a service charge.'
I hosted a couchsurfer for a night this week. I think I mentioned couchsurfing a few blogs back but I guess it's a website where people can organize both hosting and stays for free, couchsurfering, around the world. I haven't actually signed up for it myself but another person here who does it had so many poeople staying with him that he asked if I could take one of them. The guy was nice, and Canadian. Still, I'm not sure if I would do it myself. I mean if you're really travelling on a budget it could extend your trip, but in Uzbekistan it just brings about so much potential for trouble. The reason is that you have to be officially registered where you're staying and you can't do it if you're on a tourist visa and staying at a private residence. You can have gaps for a few nights but if it gets, apparently, beyond 3 days and you get noticed by the police you'll be fined and deported. It happened to some couchsurfers who were in town a few months back.
Debit machines have slowly started to make their way into businesses in Tashkent. As far as I know they're only for Uzbek bank cards. Until this week though I'd never seen anyone using one. Anyway, I was at a small grocery store near my apartment, waiting in line to pay and the woman in front of me pulled out here bank card to pay. She handed it to the cashier. The cashier stuck the card in the machine, which looked exactly like ones you see in Canada, and asked her for her pin. She told him and he entered it. I guess security precautions will come later. Yeesh.
I hosted a couchsurfer for a night this week. I think I mentioned couchsurfing a few blogs back but I guess it's a website where people can organize both hosting and stays for free, couchsurfering, around the world. I haven't actually signed up for it myself but another person here who does it had so many poeople staying with him that he asked if I could take one of them. The guy was nice, and Canadian. Still, I'm not sure if I would do it myself. I mean if you're really travelling on a budget it could extend your trip, but in Uzbekistan it just brings about so much potential for trouble. The reason is that you have to be officially registered where you're staying and you can't do it if you're on a tourist visa and staying at a private residence. You can have gaps for a few nights but if it gets, apparently, beyond 3 days and you get noticed by the police you'll be fined and deported. It happened to some couchsurfers who were in town a few months back.
Debit machines have slowly started to make their way into businesses in Tashkent. As far as I know they're only for Uzbek bank cards. Until this week though I'd never seen anyone using one. Anyway, I was at a small grocery store near my apartment, waiting in line to pay and the woman in front of me pulled out here bank card to pay. She handed it to the cashier. The cashier stuck the card in the machine, which looked exactly like ones you see in Canada, and asked her for her pin. She told him and he entered it. I guess security precautions will come later. Yeesh.
Saturday, July 31, 2010
Cooling Down, Food Poisoning and Restaurant Confusion
The temperature cooled down by a few degrees this week. It's a relief. I've never lived in such sustained, scorching weather. It's supposed to heat up again next week but I'm thinking the evenings will stay a bit cooler....yes things are so exciting I'm talking about the weather.
I do think I've set some kind of world record for food poisoning. I wonder how that could be measured....maybe I'll just leave that alone.
After so many years learning Russian I still sometimes have trouble ordering food in restaurants. It usually happens when the server asks a question I'm not expecting and makes the rest of the interaction really confusing. This week myself and a couple of others went to an Uzbek place for lunch, wanting, or course, Uzbek food. The server came over, we started ordering and then she told us that they had, well hot dogs or hamburgers as well. At first she said hamburgers but then the offer changed to hot dogs. I was so confused that I was being offered burgers or hot dogs at an Uzbek place that the rest of the order got, well, very confused. It's not like those things are rare at all here, they're everywhere, just didn't expect to have them offered to us at an Uzbek place.
I do think I've set some kind of world record for food poisoning. I wonder how that could be measured....maybe I'll just leave that alone.
After so many years learning Russian I still sometimes have trouble ordering food in restaurants. It usually happens when the server asks a question I'm not expecting and makes the rest of the interaction really confusing. This week myself and a couple of others went to an Uzbek place for lunch, wanting, or course, Uzbek food. The server came over, we started ordering and then she told us that they had, well hot dogs or hamburgers as well. At first she said hamburgers but then the offer changed to hot dogs. I was so confused that I was being offered burgers or hot dogs at an Uzbek place that the rest of the order got, well, very confused. It's not like those things are rare at all here, they're everywhere, just didn't expect to have them offered to us at an Uzbek place.
Saturday, July 24, 2010
Puff the Magic Dragon, No Smoking
Not too exciting of a week this week, so just a couple of short anecdotes. People, at least the people in my office here, really really get into social events, usually in the form of singing and dancing. Friday after work our new boss organized a BBQ in the backyard of the office. So about 5 we all trooped back there and there was a nice spread of food and drinks. Actually really nice. After about an hour the first suggestion to start singing was made. Russian songs, which I don't know, so no problem. After a while though that got boring and there was a call for an Italian song, then a Japanese song and then Canadian and American songs. damnit. Italian and Japanese songs were no problems but the 3 of us (2 Canadians and 1 American) couldn't come up with a song that we all knew the words too. We decided to do a folksy-type song and eventually settled on 'Puff the Magic Dragon' which I found the lyrics for on-line. None of the local staff knew the song but I think it may have raised an eyebrow among the other western staff who did. Maybe not the best song considering what the office is. Anyway, fun times.
The building I live in here is an L-shape and my living room overlooks the inside corner of the L. On Wednesday evening I heard a big commotion, almost an argument coming from the inside corner. About an hour later I went out for dinner an saw the, well, loud discussion was still going on between about 20 of the building's residents. On Thurday night I came in after dark and found there is now a spotlight fixed on the side of the building, pointing at the corner and a big no smoking sign hanging from one of the trees. I guess some teenagers had been smoking by the building and bothering some of the people. The light doesn't shine in my window but I really don't know how the people on the first floor are supposed to sleep now. Maybe their bedrooms are on the other side.
The building I live in here is an L-shape and my living room overlooks the inside corner of the L. On Wednesday evening I heard a big commotion, almost an argument coming from the inside corner. About an hour later I went out for dinner an saw the, well, loud discussion was still going on between about 20 of the building's residents. On Thurday night I came in after dark and found there is now a spotlight fixed on the side of the building, pointing at the corner and a big no smoking sign hanging from one of the trees. I guess some teenagers had been smoking by the building and bothering some of the people. The light doesn't shine in my window but I really don't know how the people on the first floor are supposed to sleep now. Maybe their bedrooms are on the other side.
Saturday, July 17, 2010
Staff Turnover, Wrong Numbers, Lady Gaga and Almaty
Well the first three are pretty short as I spent the week in Almaty, but just little things that made me go, 'huh?'. I have two regular places that I got to, one is a coffee shop (where I am right now) and the other is a pizza place. In the 4.5+ months I've been here I think both have had several complete turnovers in staff. I mean it's not like I'm at either one everyday of the week but I get to both fairly consistently, man I miss Starbucks, and people that were working there even a few weeks ago are nowhere to be found. I mean are they paying Gordon Campbell'esque minimum wage here? Oops, it slipped out.
People are sometimes very convinced they have dialled the right number. Very convinced. I went to buy milk this morning and left my phone in the apartment. I came back 10 minutes later and there were 4 missed calls from a number I didn't recognize. Sure enough 5 minutes later it rang again. I said, 'hello?'. The person said 'hello' back and hesitated. I said, 'who is this?'. The response was, 'what do you mean who is this?' I said, 'I think you have the wrong number.' The response, 'what do you mean?'. Understanding guy that I am I said, 'who do you want to speak to?'. The response, 'well this used to be my number'. I paused, thinking this could go on for a while and just hung up. No more calls since then.
In the taxi on the way over here, again with the taxis, my driver was about 60-65 years old. He had the radio on. About halfway here a Lady Gaga song came on and he cranked it. I guess she attracts fans from all age groups.
I spent the week at a conference in Almaty, Kazakhstan. I drove with 4 other people from the office in one of this big, white, UN Land Cruisers. It was cool to travel in, I have to say. I think it definitely got us through the border crossings faster than if I had been on my own or if we'd been in a regular car. It's a long drive. Took 11.5 hours there and 13 hours on the way back. And even that is only because our driver was going FAST. At various points I noticed that we were going over 170km an hour. The driver did seem to know what he was doing but, well, those aren't exactly the best roads in the world.
Almaty is the former capital of Kazakhstan. I was there previously with a buddy in the Spring of 2007 and it rained the whole time. This time it was sunny and warm (not scorching like Tashkent) and that made all the difference. I stayed with some friends in great, central location and was able to walk to the conference everyday. The conference was what it was. Are conferences ever useful? But walking around in the evenings was great. It's a much more western city than Tashkent. By that I mean there are, for example, bank machines that works, cars that aren't made in a Uzbekistan, a better selection and quality of restaurants and, from very superficial observation, a much more diverse population. I mean just because it's more western doesn't make it better but after almost 5 months I definitely know what I prefer. Anyway, good trip.
People are sometimes very convinced they have dialled the right number. Very convinced. I went to buy milk this morning and left my phone in the apartment. I came back 10 minutes later and there were 4 missed calls from a number I didn't recognize. Sure enough 5 minutes later it rang again. I said, 'hello?'. The person said 'hello' back and hesitated. I said, 'who is this?'. The response was, 'what do you mean who is this?' I said, 'I think you have the wrong number.' The response, 'what do you mean?'. Understanding guy that I am I said, 'who do you want to speak to?'. The response, 'well this used to be my number'. I paused, thinking this could go on for a while and just hung up. No more calls since then.
In the taxi on the way over here, again with the taxis, my driver was about 60-65 years old. He had the radio on. About halfway here a Lady Gaga song came on and he cranked it. I guess she attracts fans from all age groups.
I spent the week at a conference in Almaty, Kazakhstan. I drove with 4 other people from the office in one of this big, white, UN Land Cruisers. It was cool to travel in, I have to say. I think it definitely got us through the border crossings faster than if I had been on my own or if we'd been in a regular car. It's a long drive. Took 11.5 hours there and 13 hours on the way back. And even that is only because our driver was going FAST. At various points I noticed that we were going over 170km an hour. The driver did seem to know what he was doing but, well, those aren't exactly the best roads in the world.
Almaty is the former capital of Kazakhstan. I was there previously with a buddy in the Spring of 2007 and it rained the whole time. This time it was sunny and warm (not scorching like Tashkent) and that made all the difference. I stayed with some friends in great, central location and was able to walk to the conference everyday. The conference was what it was. Are conferences ever useful? But walking around in the evenings was great. It's a much more western city than Tashkent. By that I mean there are, for example, bank machines that works, cars that aren't made in a Uzbekistan, a better selection and quality of restaurants and, from very superficial observation, a much more diverse population. I mean just because it's more western doesn't make it better but after almost 5 months I definitely know what I prefer. Anyway, good trip.
Saturday, July 10, 2010
Speaking Canadian, The Neighbour, Kazakhstan
Taxi drivers again. Seems like they're accounting for half my anecdotes. I have a very standard conversation, if you can call it that, in almost all of the taxis I ride in. It usually goes like this: taxi pulls up, we negotiate the price, I get in or wait for the next one. I then get a barrage of one word, or at least very short, questions until we get to where I've asked the guy to take me to. First question, 'German?'. As in, am I German. Always German, I have no idea why. 'Canadian' I respond. Usually followed by a pause as he tries to remember where Canada is. Then comes a varied combo of, 'why are you here?', 'are you married?', 'do you have children?' 'how much money do you make?' and 'Do you find Tashkent hot?' At this point I can almost answer them in my sleep. This past week though, one actually threw me off. The questions started out normally enough until the guy hit me with, 'Do you speak Canadian?' I mean I guess maybe in some kind of abstract way I do, and I almost said yes, but didn't and explained that Canadians speak English and French.
It's been a fairly uneventfull week, wasn't even sure I was going to blog. Sometimes though this place is just a theatre of the absurd and there was another installment last night. I think I mentioned back in March, just after I got here, that one of my neighbours came banging on my door quite late one night complaining that my radiator was affecting hers and her apartment was cold. Anyway, another incident with the same person last night. It was Friday night and my turn to host a dinner for the group I usually socialize with. There were 7 of us in total. We ate and chatted in the living room after dinner. About 11pm we were still there and one of the group was standing at the living room window, which was open, while still partipating in the conversation. Suddenly a stick, probably a broomstick, whips across the window and almost hits her. Someone swung it from the apartment next door. It didn't hit her, but we were all quite shocked. Myself and another guy ran to the window, and sure enough there was the crazy neighbour from back in march leaning out and yelling at us to be quiet. She went back inside before we really had a chance to respond.
We were all quite annoyed, but decided it was for the best to quiet the apparently loud talking we were doing down a bit. So we did and continued on. I guess I had forgotten to lock the front door when everyone arrived. About 10 minutes later this neighbour opens the front door of my aparmment (my friggin apartment!) and walks in with her dog (her friggin dog!) to continue complaning. We were all stunned. I will gloss over what happened next but suffice it to say she quickly decided she had made a mistake and left...quickly. I'm quite certain it won't happen again. Seriously though, who does stuff like that!?
Unfortunately, I won't be making it to Tajikistan this trip. One more 'stan for the future I guess. However, my 'work' needed to take an extra car to a conference in Almaty, Kazakhstan next week so I get to tag along. It'll be nice to get out of Uzbekistan, I haven't left the country in 3 months. Geez, that's something I never thought I'd be able to say. Anyway, we leave on Monday morning and will be there till Friday. It's a long drive, that will be made longer because of me unfortunately. Foreigners (non-ex Soviet citizens) can only cross at certain border crossings. From talking to the driver on Friday we'll be going quite a ways out of the way to get to one where I can cross. Ah well, should still be interesting.
It's been a fairly uneventfull week, wasn't even sure I was going to blog. Sometimes though this place is just a theatre of the absurd and there was another installment last night. I think I mentioned back in March, just after I got here, that one of my neighbours came banging on my door quite late one night complaining that my radiator was affecting hers and her apartment was cold. Anyway, another incident with the same person last night. It was Friday night and my turn to host a dinner for the group I usually socialize with. There were 7 of us in total. We ate and chatted in the living room after dinner. About 11pm we were still there and one of the group was standing at the living room window, which was open, while still partipating in the conversation. Suddenly a stick, probably a broomstick, whips across the window and almost hits her. Someone swung it from the apartment next door. It didn't hit her, but we were all quite shocked. Myself and another guy ran to the window, and sure enough there was the crazy neighbour from back in march leaning out and yelling at us to be quiet. She went back inside before we really had a chance to respond.
We were all quite annoyed, but decided it was for the best to quiet the apparently loud talking we were doing down a bit. So we did and continued on. I guess I had forgotten to lock the front door when everyone arrived. About 10 minutes later this neighbour opens the front door of my aparmment (my friggin apartment!) and walks in with her dog (her friggin dog!) to continue complaning. We were all stunned. I will gloss over what happened next but suffice it to say she quickly decided she had made a mistake and left...quickly. I'm quite certain it won't happen again. Seriously though, who does stuff like that!?
Unfortunately, I won't be making it to Tajikistan this trip. One more 'stan for the future I guess. However, my 'work' needed to take an extra car to a conference in Almaty, Kazakhstan next week so I get to tag along. It'll be nice to get out of Uzbekistan, I haven't left the country in 3 months. Geez, that's something I never thought I'd be able to say. Anyway, we leave on Monday morning and will be there till Friday. It's a long drive, that will be made longer because of me unfortunately. Foreigners (non-ex Soviet citizens) can only cross at certain border crossings. From talking to the driver on Friday we'll be going quite a ways out of the way to get to one where I can cross. Ah well, should still be interesting.
Saturday, July 3, 2010
Chervak, Canada Day in Tashkent, The Osh Video
Chervak is a mountain area about a two hour drive outside out of Tashkent. There's also a dam and artificial lake area that, I believe, serves as Tashkent's drinking water. Anyway, there are not many beach/lake options around here so the reservoir also serves as a recreational area. Last Sunday myself and a couple of other hired a taxi to take us out there for the day. Man was that guy a talker. He spoke clearly at least but unfortunately I was the only one of the three of us who could really communicate so I got his opinion on pretty much everything during the drive. Good practice, just a bit tiring. Anyway, after passing through the border to get out of Taskent (seriously) it was a pretty easy drive.
Chervak, and I'm not sure if that's the name of the reservoir or the general area, is very scenic. Reminded me a lot of Lake Okanagan. Pretty decent crowd of people. There was a pay beach and a free beach. As the free beach was overly packed we chose the pay beach. The driver decided to spend the day with us, which was a little odd. I mean we weren't expecting him to wait in the car but we also weren't expecting to put on his speedo (so gross) and sit under our umbrella with us the whole day. Anyway, was still a good day overall and nice to get out of the city.
This Thursday was, obviously, Canada Day. As I've mentioned there is no Canadian Embassy in Uzbekistan but the Canadian Ambassador in Moscow, who is alo the Ambassador to Armenia and Uzbekistan (odd combo eh? why not add Belgium too?)decided to celebrate Canada Day in Tashkent this year. So the honourary consulate organized a reception at a local hotel. I showed up about 10 minutes late and was shocked to find probably a hundred people there- there are very Canadians in Tashkent. I soon realized though that it was the typical crowd of people that makes the rounds at these things. Within about an hour-and-a-half they had all cleared out leaving the, I think, 6 actual Canadians, including the Ambassador.
On my way to work from my morning Russian lesson on Friday I started chatting a bit to the taxi driver. He asked if I wanted to see a video on his cell phone. I said ok. It was taken during the violence in Osh a few weeks back. Just horrible. He asked if there was anything I could do with it, anyone I could send it to. I probably should have said yes, but was so shocked I just said, 'no, sorry, I wouldn't know who to send it to.' Seeing something like that though, I don't know how there can ever be any forgiving and forgetting in Southern Kyrgyzstan.
Chervak, and I'm not sure if that's the name of the reservoir or the general area, is very scenic. Reminded me a lot of Lake Okanagan. Pretty decent crowd of people. There was a pay beach and a free beach. As the free beach was overly packed we chose the pay beach. The driver decided to spend the day with us, which was a little odd. I mean we weren't expecting him to wait in the car but we also weren't expecting to put on his speedo (so gross) and sit under our umbrella with us the whole day. Anyway, was still a good day overall and nice to get out of the city.
This Thursday was, obviously, Canada Day. As I've mentioned there is no Canadian Embassy in Uzbekistan but the Canadian Ambassador in Moscow, who is alo the Ambassador to Armenia and Uzbekistan (odd combo eh? why not add Belgium too?)decided to celebrate Canada Day in Tashkent this year. So the honourary consulate organized a reception at a local hotel. I showed up about 10 minutes late and was shocked to find probably a hundred people there- there are very Canadians in Tashkent. I soon realized though that it was the typical crowd of people that makes the rounds at these things. Within about an hour-and-a-half they had all cleared out leaving the, I think, 6 actual Canadians, including the Ambassador.
On my way to work from my morning Russian lesson on Friday I started chatting a bit to the taxi driver. He asked if I wanted to see a video on his cell phone. I said ok. It was taken during the violence in Osh a few weeks back. Just horrible. He asked if there was anything I could do with it, anyone I could send it to. I probably should have said yes, but was so shocked I just said, 'no, sorry, I wouldn't know who to send it to.' Seeing something like that though, I don't know how there can ever be any forgiving and forgetting in Southern Kyrgyzstan.
Saturday, June 26, 2010
Giant Flying Beetles, Waiting in the Shade and the Local/Ex-Pat Disconnect
Last week I arrived in my apartment to a loud buzzing noise. At first I thought maybe someone was using an electric, well, something on the street outside my kitchen window. I stood for a minute listening and eventually could tell that whatever it was probably inside and pounding again my window. I went, a little timidly, into the kitchen and found one of the giant-flying beetles I'd seen a few times around the city trying to escape out my kitchen window. Must have come in through the door as my windows all have screens now. Although with the noise, I don't know how I could have missed it. They've just like regular beetles, just giant and flying (and loud). Yeesh. Anyway, they're too big to squish, so after I got over my terror, I managed to trap it and throw it out the window. That'll get your blood pumpin'.
I was supposed to go the ballet last week. I went to the opera a few weeks back and thought, 'ok I can probably do a little more culture.' I set off last Sunday into a balmy 8000 degree Tashkent afternoon. I got to the theatre a few minutes before the group of people I was meeting up with and stood in a patch of shade off to one side while I waited. After about 10 minutes I thought, 'wait a minute, I'm waiting in sizzling heat, to go into a theatre, where it will probably be even hotter, to watch ballet? I think the heat's gotten to me' I turned around and left with a plan to make a lame excuse the next time I saw the people I was supposed to meet. Turns out I was the only one who even made it as far as the theatre.
I think the only real disappointment I've had here is that I haven't really connected with Uzbeks all that well. Local Russians and Koreans yes, no problem. But with the exception of a few Uzbeks who have spent extended periods in the west, it just hasn't happened. I've talked to a number of other expats and they all say the same thing. It's too bad, but I've got a bit of time left so maybe things will improve a bit.
I was supposed to go the ballet last week. I went to the opera a few weeks back and thought, 'ok I can probably do a little more culture.' I set off last Sunday into a balmy 8000 degree Tashkent afternoon. I got to the theatre a few minutes before the group of people I was meeting up with and stood in a patch of shade off to one side while I waited. After about 10 minutes I thought, 'wait a minute, I'm waiting in sizzling heat, to go into a theatre, where it will probably be even hotter, to watch ballet? I think the heat's gotten to me' I turned around and left with a plan to make a lame excuse the next time I saw the people I was supposed to meet. Turns out I was the only one who even made it as far as the theatre.
I think the only real disappointment I've had here is that I haven't really connected with Uzbeks all that well. Local Russians and Koreans yes, no problem. But with the exception of a few Uzbeks who have spent extended periods in the west, it just hasn't happened. I've talked to a number of other expats and they all say the same thing. It's too bad, but I've got a bit of time left so maybe things will improve a bit.
Saturday, June 19, 2010
The Honourary Canadian Consulate, The Queen's Birthday and Genocide
A few weeks back I decided to put my passport in a less than waterproof pocket while I was out in the pouring rain. It didn't get destroyed but it's certainly the worse for wear. I've been a little concerned about it. No so much for getting back into Canada, but getting out of Uzbekistan. Exit customs and passport control here are, to say the least, thorough experiences. For example it took my friend and I almost two hours to get out of Uzbekistan on the way to Turkmenistan in April. And that was with a line-up of maybe 6-7 people.
Unfortunately there is no Canadian embassy or consulate in Tashkent, only an honourary consulate. They're organizing a Canada Day reception for July 1st so I figure, well, at least they're willing to do stuff so I sent them an email about my passport and scheduled an appointment. What a weird place. Although I didn't meet the honourary consul, he is apparently a Russian guy who lived in Canada long enough to get an Canadian passport. There is actaully an office, a fairly substantial one, with the requisite photos of Harper and Michaelle (sp?) Jean on the wall. The asistant to the honoury counsel thought my passport would be fine for travelling still, so that was good. He also gave me his card to call if I have any problems when crossing the border. Just a strange experience though. Almost seemed like it was a commercial enterprise operating under the auspices of the Canadian government.
This week was the Queen's Birthday so the British Embassy hosted a reception at the Ambassador's residence. What a palace, geez. It easily accomidated the 200 or so people who attended. Unfortunately a few rain squalls blew through during the event which was held outside but they passed quickly- strange weather here recenlty. Fortunately there were lots of trees in the yard to stand under. An interesting mix of ex-pats and locals for sure.
I've had a few chats with some of the Uzbeks in my office about what they think about what's been happening in Kyrgyzstan. It can be an emotional subject. Although they're usually loath to speak strongly, in a negative way, on anything, the feeling that what's been happening is genocide or ethnic cleansing is quite strong. Can't say I disagree with them. Not too sure about future of Kyrgyz-Uzbek relations. They are going to be tough I think.
Unfortunately there is no Canadian embassy or consulate in Tashkent, only an honourary consulate. They're organizing a Canada Day reception for July 1st so I figure, well, at least they're willing to do stuff so I sent them an email about my passport and scheduled an appointment. What a weird place. Although I didn't meet the honourary consul, he is apparently a Russian guy who lived in Canada long enough to get an Canadian passport. There is actaully an office, a fairly substantial one, with the requisite photos of Harper and Michaelle (sp?) Jean on the wall. The asistant to the honoury counsel thought my passport would be fine for travelling still, so that was good. He also gave me his card to call if I have any problems when crossing the border. Just a strange experience though. Almost seemed like it was a commercial enterprise operating under the auspices of the Canadian government.
This week was the Queen's Birthday so the British Embassy hosted a reception at the Ambassador's residence. What a palace, geez. It easily accomidated the 200 or so people who attended. Unfortunately a few rain squalls blew through during the event which was held outside but they passed quickly- strange weather here recenlty. Fortunately there were lots of trees in the yard to stand under. An interesting mix of ex-pats and locals for sure.
I've had a few chats with some of the Uzbeks in my office about what they think about what's been happening in Kyrgyzstan. It can be an emotional subject. Although they're usually loath to speak strongly, in a negative way, on anything, the feeling that what's been happening is genocide or ethnic cleansing is quite strong. Can't say I disagree with them. Not too sure about future of Kyrgyz-Uzbek relations. They are going to be tough I think.
Tuesday, June 15, 2010
Kyrgyzstan
Well, Tashkent is in the general area but really not all the close to what's been happening in South Kyrgyzstan. Probably a day's drive away. Life here is going on as usual. I am definitely glad I already did my trip to the Fergana Valley though!
Saturday, June 12, 2010
The Weather, the World Cup and the Bazaar
Geez it's been hot here this week. mid to high 30's since last weekend. It's not like Eastern Canada with the humidity, but it's still pretty toasty. I asked a guy in the office on friday, 'hey, so is this hot for you?'. He said, 'meh, it's getting warm.' Apparently 50 is quite common during July which is the hottest month. I will be living air conditioner to air conditioner.
The World Cup started yesterday. I'm fairly ambivalent about soccer...wait I mean football, but lots of people here are excited so I tagged along to watch the first game betwen Mexico and South Africa. What a surprise, it was a tie. I think Uzbekistan comes about as close to qualifying as Canada but there was a bit of pride that the ref was an Uzbek. Seemed to a bit strange to me, but, well, whatever it's soccer.
I've got a really good Saturday (sometimes Sunday) morning routine going. I get up, laze around for a while and then wander over to the bazaar which is about a 20 minute walk. The different products are all grouped together and in eachother area, after buying from everyone I've found what I think are the best people for, say, fresh fruit. It's nice. They all greet me with, 'брать, брать!' which means brother, brother, trying to get my attention. I stand firm though and just get what I came for. At least they aren't trying to scam me (as much) anymore. I then head over to the grocery store for stuff like meat, which I really prefer to purchase refrigerated....at the bazaar it often lies in the open on tables. Gross.
The World Cup started yesterday. I'm fairly ambivalent about soccer...wait I mean football, but lots of people here are excited so I tagged along to watch the first game betwen Mexico and South Africa. What a surprise, it was a tie. I think Uzbekistan comes about as close to qualifying as Canada but there was a bit of pride that the ref was an Uzbek. Seemed to a bit strange to me, but, well, whatever it's soccer.
I've got a really good Saturday (sometimes Sunday) morning routine going. I get up, laze around for a while and then wander over to the bazaar which is about a 20 minute walk. The different products are all grouped together and in eachother area, after buying from everyone I've found what I think are the best people for, say, fresh fruit. It's nice. They all greet me with, 'брать, брать!' which means brother, brother, trying to get my attention. I stand firm though and just get what I came for. At least they aren't trying to scam me (as much) anymore. I then head over to the grocery store for stuff like meat, which I really prefer to purchase refrigerated....at the bazaar it often lies in the open on tables. Gross.
Saturday, June 5, 2010
Futsol, Rerouting of Goods, Paying Utilities, Dancing, Cockroaches
The Asian Futsol (indoor soccer) Championships were in Tashkent recently. Myself and another expat went to the third place game last Sunday between Japan and China. Actually pretty exciting to watch. Japan was the way better team though and won easily. The game ended at about 4 and the final, between Iran and UZ-BEK-I-STAN (lots of chanting even during the third place game) didn't start till 6 so we decided not to stick around. On the way out we saw something that, well, was a good exmaple of state-society relations here, at least I thought so. We got to the exit and people were already starting to arrive for the final. Rather than letting them on, or just letting them wait outside, the police formed a barrier between the stadium and the waiting crowd. Seemed a little tense...we got out and moved along quickly.
I often see things in the stores here that make me think, 'hmmmm I don't think that was originally meant to be sold here.' It's nothing overly exciting but for example, yesterday I went to the corner store to buy sugar cubes. The only ones they had were packaged in Uzbek Airways boxes. Ah well, worked well for me.
Bills here are moistly pay-as-you-go, including basic utilities. It means that if you are not completely paid in full at the start of the billing period they will cut you off, either immediatley or within about 4-5 days. I can pay my internet bill myself but electricity, water, gas and my home phone have to get paid by my landlord. She's been very good about paying it but was out of town this week and just come back yesterday. Anyway, I met up with her last night to pay rent and give the monthly meter readings for all the utilities which she then pays at the post office. No sooner has she left than the house phone rang with a recorded message from the phone company saying the house phone would be shut off if not paid soon (I didn't catch when exaclty). I called my landlord and she said she'd pay today, and she will. But geeez, some things are quite strict here.
Last night I went for dinner with a few others at a restaurant called Sim-Sim. It's a good place, very big with large rooms that get rented out for parties. A bit expensive for here, but then I paid about $8 for a huge meal and drinks, so overall not too bad. Sitting nearby our group was a table of 5-6 middle-age teachers celebrating the end of the school year. They were really celebrating too, polishing off bottle after bottle of vodka. Eventually a band that was making the rounds between the different rooms made it to where we were siting. Pretty cool actually, they just sat down at a table in the room and starting playing. Anyway, those Uzbek teachers loved to dance, with eachother. Did I mention they were all men? I guess it's very common here, but was still definitely a site to behold.
Later in the evening I was walking back to my apartment. You can still smoke indoors in Uzbekistan so my eyes stinging a bit and I was rubbing them which I guess pushed my contacts out of place. I was walking through an underpass and thought, 'weird, the ground seems to be moving a bit.' I stopped, blinked for a few second to let me eyes clear and then I realized...cockroaches. Everywhere. I got through there pretty quick.
I often see things in the stores here that make me think, 'hmmmm I don't think that was originally meant to be sold here.' It's nothing overly exciting but for example, yesterday I went to the corner store to buy sugar cubes. The only ones they had were packaged in Uzbek Airways boxes. Ah well, worked well for me.
Bills here are moistly pay-as-you-go, including basic utilities. It means that if you are not completely paid in full at the start of the billing period they will cut you off, either immediatley or within about 4-5 days. I can pay my internet bill myself but electricity, water, gas and my home phone have to get paid by my landlord. She's been very good about paying it but was out of town this week and just come back yesterday. Anyway, I met up with her last night to pay rent and give the monthly meter readings for all the utilities which she then pays at the post office. No sooner has she left than the house phone rang with a recorded message from the phone company saying the house phone would be shut off if not paid soon (I didn't catch when exaclty). I called my landlord and she said she'd pay today, and she will. But geeez, some things are quite strict here.
Last night I went for dinner with a few others at a restaurant called Sim-Sim. It's a good place, very big with large rooms that get rented out for parties. A bit expensive for here, but then I paid about $8 for a huge meal and drinks, so overall not too bad. Sitting nearby our group was a table of 5-6 middle-age teachers celebrating the end of the school year. They were really celebrating too, polishing off bottle after bottle of vodka. Eventually a band that was making the rounds between the different rooms made it to where we were siting. Pretty cool actually, they just sat down at a table in the room and starting playing. Anyway, those Uzbek teachers loved to dance, with eachother. Did I mention they were all men? I guess it's very common here, but was still definitely a site to behold.
Later in the evening I was walking back to my apartment. You can still smoke indoors in Uzbekistan so my eyes stinging a bit and I was rubbing them which I guess pushed my contacts out of place. I was walking through an underpass and thought, 'weird, the ground seems to be moving a bit.' I stopped, blinked for a few second to let me eyes clear and then I realized...cockroaches. Everywhere. I got through there pretty quick.
Friday, May 28, 2010
Halfway
Well that's half, or a little bit more than half actually. Excellent experience so far. Amazing how fast time passes. Seems about last week that I was standing in line at passport control here watching Canada win the gold medal game at the Olympics.
Hmmmmm....I'd say highlights so far have been the trip to Turkmenistan and Azerbaijan, bowling (just because it seems to weird to do here) and just getting up every morning, walking out of my apartment and being in Uzbekistan. Uzbekistan.
I don't think the next almost 3 months are going to see anything too too different. I very much want to get to Tajikistan. It's the only former Soviet Stan I haven't been too. It's close, bordering on Uzbekistan, but unfortunately the regimes to not have a good rapport and so there are no direct flights. Anyway, will just mean a bit of a longer drive, something for later June or July I think. I think that's probably going to be it for big trips. Apparently Tashkent will start to get progressively to the point of being unbearably right about the beginning of June. Good thing for air conditioning.
Anyway, it's been an astoundingly cultured week this week. On Tuesday I went to the Opera. It was Tosca in Russian. Ahhhh not a huge opera fan but the singing is certainly impressive. Yesterday the French Cultural Centre put on a concert by a classical guitar player, which was excellent. I guess all that's left is to go to the ballet....we'll see.
Hmmmmm....I'd say highlights so far have been the trip to Turkmenistan and Azerbaijan, bowling (just because it seems to weird to do here) and just getting up every morning, walking out of my apartment and being in Uzbekistan. Uzbekistan.
I don't think the next almost 3 months are going to see anything too too different. I very much want to get to Tajikistan. It's the only former Soviet Stan I haven't been too. It's close, bordering on Uzbekistan, but unfortunately the regimes to not have a good rapport and so there are no direct flights. Anyway, will just mean a bit of a longer drive, something for later June or July I think. I think that's probably going to be it for big trips. Apparently Tashkent will start to get progressively to the point of being unbearably right about the beginning of June. Good thing for air conditioning.
Anyway, it's been an astoundingly cultured week this week. On Tuesday I went to the Opera. It was Tosca in Russian. Ahhhh not a huge opera fan but the singing is certainly impressive. Yesterday the French Cultural Centre put on a concert by a classical guitar player, which was excellent. I guess all that's left is to go to the ballet....we'll see.
Saturday, May 22, 2010
Swimming up a Mountain
About a week ago, I finally signed up for one of the hiking groups that takes, mostly ex-pats, out to the local mountains for hikes of varying degrees of difficulty. I mostly signed up because the hike offered this week by the group I signed up with was described as 'easy'. This morning I rolled outta bed about 6 (which is not that much fun on Saturday morning) and noticed that the sky was looking a little dark. I met up with the group, which was organized by a guy from the British Embassy. We met at his house and let me just say, 'wow'. Anyway, as we were gathering the sky started to open up and we stood in a sheltered part of the guy's courtyard wondering what we were gonna do. We decided to be adventurous and set off. About 2 hours and 2 thousand metres higher we arrived at the starting point for the hiking. The entire trip out to the mountain, the rain came down increasingly harder and harder and the path we set out on was now doubling as a waterfall. We met it about an hour in, to the snowline (yeesh) when the rain and wind got so hard and cold we had to back into it. That was enough. I don't recall the last time I was so wet. Anyway, still nice to get outta the city, if even for a few, very wet hours!
Monday, May 17, 2010
The One-Eyed Taxi Driver and Camel Riding
Last Friday I stumbled out of my apartment at about 620am to start my usual trek to the university for my morning Russian lesson. I walked out to the street to hail a taxi, which is really just pay-hitchhiking here, but was having a bit of trouble getting someone to stop. Most of the cars were already full and returning from the airport which is close to my place. A couple of guys standing by a car about 20 metres away saw me and one of them yelled, 'hey where are you going?'. I told him and he said he'd take me. I got into his car thinking, 'there's something funny about this guy.' We drive off and he turns around and says, 'have you noticed that I only have one eye pointing at his clearly glass right eye. I though, 'Oh my god, I'm going to die.' He sensed/saw my nervousness (read: terror) and said, 'ah don't worry I have been driving this road for years....although I can really only drive it early in the mornings now (read: when there're no cars on the road). I had him stop waaaaaaay before I usually get out. Yeesh.
This weekend, myself and a few others decided to go camel riding in the desert. So Saturday morning we hoped on the train to Navoi which is, well, somewhere in Uzbekistan, far far from Tashkent. After 6 hours, 4.5 of which we spent listening to excruciating Uzbek music videos (one of our group eventually complained that not everyone on the train was Uzbek so they were turned off) we arrived in Navoi. We did not yet have train tickets back but were hoping to be able to return to Tashkent Sunday evening.
The camel trekking camp operator met us at the station and said, 'well it's now a 3 hour ride into the desert to get to the camp and so we'll get there at 6pm. There's a train back at 9am and a train back at 9pm. I suggest you take the 9pm.' (which turned to out to be 10 hours- gah!). So we agreed and went to buy tickets. We got up to the front of the ticket line and said what we wanted, as if there were options and were told there were no tickets. Getting a bit worried the camel man (Radek) said, 'what do you mean.....oh right, we'll pay more.' 'Ok there's tickets.' So we settled up and headed off into the desert.
After a somewhat jarring right we arrived at Radek's enormous camp way out in the middle of nowhere. He has 15 big yurts (tents), a more permanent kitchen complex and some kind of lean-to areas for eating. Huge and he wouldn't really say how he was able to set up something like it in the middle of Uzbekistan. So we unpacked and headed out to ride the camels. It was a short trek and we were guided the whole time. Still pretty cool though. Yikes, they are not fragrant beasts, that's for sure.
That night we had dinner with Radek (most of the time). He son, step-son, wife and a few employees were there too but they mostly stuck to working while Radek liked to sit and, well, hargangue with his opinions about things. At one point he invited me to come back in the fall after the camp was closed for the winter to go hunting with him. He assured me that after you kill once, you can kill anything. I said, '....yeaaass I will....call you.' geez.
The next morning we woke up and drove out to a surprisingly large lake to do a bit of hiking around and have lunch. Interesting place, tons of turtles and a few big lizards (as well as lotsa small once). I mean the big ones were probably a metre long at most but a bit shocking when you're walking on your own and almost step on one.
We got back to the camp around 3, thinking that we had to leave around 6 to get to the train on time. The plan was to take us in one of the two camp jeeps- very old, very Soviet. At about 4 Radek's son went to drop of some garbage at the local dump. About an hour later Radek got a call from him saying the jeep had broken down. Radek to the rescue and about an hour later both jeeps came, barely, creaking back into camp. Radek and his employees then debated which jeep to take up back to the station in. Eventually the one that hadn't broken down was chosen although about 10 mins into the trip it started to leak water and overheat. At one point I had to sit in the driver's set with my foot on the gas while Radek went under the hood to, among other things, pour a whole bucket of water (begged from some people in a house we were passing) into....well, the place you pour water in a car. Radek got back in, we we asked, 'uh, is it bad'. His only response was, 'very bad'. So we were bit a nervous, especially because we could never tell if he was being serious.
At one point, later in the trip we were flagged to stop by the traffic police at the road block into Navoi. Radek slowed to a crawl but didn't want to stop...so he opened the door (windows don't roll down on those things) and said, 'I can't stop the car now, I'll come back!' They nodded, so I think he's pretty well known/connected
Anyway, we got to the station on time. 10 hours back. Geeeez. Seemed like the train was stopping every 5 minutes. This weekend, I'm staying in Tashkent.
This weekend, myself and a few others decided to go camel riding in the desert. So Saturday morning we hoped on the train to Navoi which is, well, somewhere in Uzbekistan, far far from Tashkent. After 6 hours, 4.5 of which we spent listening to excruciating Uzbek music videos (one of our group eventually complained that not everyone on the train was Uzbek so they were turned off) we arrived in Navoi. We did not yet have train tickets back but were hoping to be able to return to Tashkent Sunday evening.
The camel trekking camp operator met us at the station and said, 'well it's now a 3 hour ride into the desert to get to the camp and so we'll get there at 6pm. There's a train back at 9am and a train back at 9pm. I suggest you take the 9pm.' (which turned to out to be 10 hours- gah!). So we agreed and went to buy tickets. We got up to the front of the ticket line and said what we wanted, as if there were options and were told there were no tickets. Getting a bit worried the camel man (Radek) said, 'what do you mean.....oh right, we'll pay more.' 'Ok there's tickets.' So we settled up and headed off into the desert.
After a somewhat jarring right we arrived at Radek's enormous camp way out in the middle of nowhere. He has 15 big yurts (tents), a more permanent kitchen complex and some kind of lean-to areas for eating. Huge and he wouldn't really say how he was able to set up something like it in the middle of Uzbekistan. So we unpacked and headed out to ride the camels. It was a short trek and we were guided the whole time. Still pretty cool though. Yikes, they are not fragrant beasts, that's for sure.
That night we had dinner with Radek (most of the time). He son, step-son, wife and a few employees were there too but they mostly stuck to working while Radek liked to sit and, well, hargangue with his opinions about things. At one point he invited me to come back in the fall after the camp was closed for the winter to go hunting with him. He assured me that after you kill once, you can kill anything. I said, '....yeaaass I will....call you.' geez.
The next morning we woke up and drove out to a surprisingly large lake to do a bit of hiking around and have lunch. Interesting place, tons of turtles and a few big lizards (as well as lotsa small once). I mean the big ones were probably a metre long at most but a bit shocking when you're walking on your own and almost step on one.
We got back to the camp around 3, thinking that we had to leave around 6 to get to the train on time. The plan was to take us in one of the two camp jeeps- very old, very Soviet. At about 4 Radek's son went to drop of some garbage at the local dump. About an hour later Radek got a call from him saying the jeep had broken down. Radek to the rescue and about an hour later both jeeps came, barely, creaking back into camp. Radek and his employees then debated which jeep to take up back to the station in. Eventually the one that hadn't broken down was chosen although about 10 mins into the trip it started to leak water and overheat. At one point I had to sit in the driver's set with my foot on the gas while Radek went under the hood to, among other things, pour a whole bucket of water (begged from some people in a house we were passing) into....well, the place you pour water in a car. Radek got back in, we we asked, 'uh, is it bad'. His only response was, 'very bad'. So we were bit a nervous, especially because we could never tell if he was being serious.
At one point, later in the trip we were flagged to stop by the traffic police at the road block into Navoi. Radek slowed to a crawl but didn't want to stop...so he opened the door (windows don't roll down on those things) and said, 'I can't stop the car now, I'll come back!' They nodded, so I think he's pretty well known/connected
Anyway, we got to the station on time. 10 hours back. Geeeez. Seemed like the train was stopping every 5 minutes. This weekend, I'm staying in Tashkent.
Tuesday, May 11, 2010
The Fergana Valley (Damases, Valentina's Guesthouse and the Flood!)
The Fergana Valley is that part of Central Asia where Uzbekistan, Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan are so tangled together it's almost impossible to make out where one ends and the others begin. Seriously, check it out on a map, that Joseph S was a maaaaad scientist. The Uzbek part of the valley is the most populated part of the country and generally considered to be the centre of, how would you put it...Uzbekiness? Tashkent is just a big cosmopolitan (really) city with lots of international influences whereas Bukhara and Samarkand are more Tajik than Uzbek.
Anyway, this past weekend was, yet another, long weekend for Victory Day. In Canada and I assume other places, I think we refer to it as VE Day. Unfortunately it was the last long weekend till the end of the summer so myself and 4 others decided to head to the valley to get off the beaten track a little bit. Most tourists end up going to Bukhara, Samarkand and Khiva so we thought it'd be a good idea to just see somthing different. It's also a bit more conservatively muslim than the rest of the country with a recently restive past (google: 'Andijon' for more on that) but anyway off we went.
Sunday morning we met up at small square close to where we all live and grabbed taxis (city taxis won't usually take 5 people together) to the bazaar south of the city where long-distance taxis wait to take people to the valley. Unforunately the taxi I was in made it to the right parking lot while the other taxi got terribly lost. As soon as myself and the two others with me got out we were MOBBED by people wanting to take us absolutely anywhere in the Fergana Valley we wanted to go. I have never experienced anything like that. Madness and they wouldn't stop. I made the mistake of explaning where we were going, that we wanted a minivan (Daewoo Damases are the most common here- I just like saying the name) and that we were still waiting for two other people. So....they realized I could communicate and that the other two couldn't really. So while they walked around mostly unharassed I tried to shake the mob...it just didn't happen. Even when I told them off, a few would back off but then I'd walk a few metres and 20 more would come running. I mean I understand they're just trying to make a buck, but it was a bit overwhelming.
Eventually one of the drivers suggested we get in his van to look for our friends (smart) which we did. Anyway, we found them and were on our way.
Unforunately, the ride was quite a bit longer than we anticpated. 400km along a winding, climbing, pot-holed road takes a while. Beautiful scenery though, the road crosses a mountain range (Tien Shan I believe) with amazing views of the surrounding valleys. I guess really the only downside of the road were the roadblocks. Very big here. There's one at the Tashkent City limits and between every province. At the checkpoint entering and leaving the valley, which is also a province, we had to show our pasports and get registered at the checkpoint (sensitive area).
Anyway, we eventually made it to Margelon, our first desination and the site of a silk factory and, apparentley, the largest market in the country. But, the trip took way longer than we thought and markets close early in Uzbekistan so it was already closed by the time we got there. We decided to leave the silk factory to the following day and headed on to Fergana city which was about a half hour further and where we were planning to stay the night.
We arrived in Fergana around 3pm. Nice city, very green, very planned (read: Soviet) and lots of people speaking Russian. We eventually found a place to stay at Valentina's Guest House. Unfortunately the place we were hoping to stay was booked up, but good old Lonely Planet saved the day. The guesthouse was turned out to be a three bedroom apartment on the 4th floor of one of the, well, typically Soviet apartment blocks that are unbelievably ubiquitous in Central Asia. Valentina was pleasant enough and only charged 10 dollars each. The place was.....not that clean and due to a few unpleasant discoveries we suspected that Valentina was usually able to fill it even when it wasn't tourist season. Know what I mean?
After dumping out bags, we set out the explore Fergana, which really just meant finding a restaurant as we were all starving. I think we lucked upon the best place in the city. A great patio place called, I think, Art Cafe. So we sat down, ate shashlik after shashlik watched some locals going to town on vodka and listened to Victory Day songs (Sunday was Victory Day). Quite an experience actually.
Really the only other thing of note in Fegana was Club Infiniti where we ventured about 10pm after touring around the city for a few hours. We arrived and walked up the stairs and were promptly told that the 'club' was already closed and that we should come back tomorrow at 7. It was kind of like a banquent hall with faded green carpet, neon lights and at least one giant cockroach. I suspect there may have been a few more (damnit, I saw one in my place the other day too).
Monday morning we headed back to Margelon to see the silk factory there. We did a tour and saw, among other things, the way string is extracted from the cocoons and the painfully painstaking carpet weaving. I do not have the knees for that job!
After the silk factory we gorged on the homemade bread made in, it seemed, every shop along the street leading into the silk factory. Amazing, it would be worth it to open an bakery in Canada and just sell Uzbek bread, I've never had anything like it.
After Margelon we continued on to Kokand, one of the three ancient Khanates in Uzbekistan (Khiva and Bukhara being the others). Nice city, we toured around a bit. It was actaully the first time we had real trouble communicating in Russian. But whatever, nothing communicates what you want to eat like a good point.
We finished up around 3pm and went to find a taxi back to Tashkent. Not too difficult and we got on the road quickly (after the guy we originally found decided he didn't want to go and sold the fare to his friend when we were already halfway out of town- weird). It was a loooooong trip back. Made longer by the torrential rainstorm that washed out the main road back to Tashkent. Imagine 4 lanes of typically impatient Uzbek drivers being merged into one and then told to turn around by a soaked, angry and flustered policeman. I've actually never seen an Uzbek cop do something helpful before (seriously).
There was, thankfully, a kind of side road that only took us about 20 km's out of the day. It too was already in the process of being washed out but was still passable when we got there. Driving through a torrent of water in a shaky old Daewoo was quite on experience. But we made it. Got back to Tashkent around 10 last night. Good trip, now back to work.
Anyway, this past weekend was, yet another, long weekend for Victory Day. In Canada and I assume other places, I think we refer to it as VE Day. Unfortunately it was the last long weekend till the end of the summer so myself and 4 others decided to head to the valley to get off the beaten track a little bit. Most tourists end up going to Bukhara, Samarkand and Khiva so we thought it'd be a good idea to just see somthing different. It's also a bit more conservatively muslim than the rest of the country with a recently restive past (google: 'Andijon' for more on that) but anyway off we went.
Sunday morning we met up at small square close to where we all live and grabbed taxis (city taxis won't usually take 5 people together) to the bazaar south of the city where long-distance taxis wait to take people to the valley. Unforunately the taxi I was in made it to the right parking lot while the other taxi got terribly lost. As soon as myself and the two others with me got out we were MOBBED by people wanting to take us absolutely anywhere in the Fergana Valley we wanted to go. I have never experienced anything like that. Madness and they wouldn't stop. I made the mistake of explaning where we were going, that we wanted a minivan (Daewoo Damases are the most common here- I just like saying the name) and that we were still waiting for two other people. So....they realized I could communicate and that the other two couldn't really. So while they walked around mostly unharassed I tried to shake the mob...it just didn't happen. Even when I told them off, a few would back off but then I'd walk a few metres and 20 more would come running. I mean I understand they're just trying to make a buck, but it was a bit overwhelming.
Eventually one of the drivers suggested we get in his van to look for our friends (smart) which we did. Anyway, we found them and were on our way.
Unforunately, the ride was quite a bit longer than we anticpated. 400km along a winding, climbing, pot-holed road takes a while. Beautiful scenery though, the road crosses a mountain range (Tien Shan I believe) with amazing views of the surrounding valleys. I guess really the only downside of the road were the roadblocks. Very big here. There's one at the Tashkent City limits and between every province. At the checkpoint entering and leaving the valley, which is also a province, we had to show our pasports and get registered at the checkpoint (sensitive area).
Anyway, we eventually made it to Margelon, our first desination and the site of a silk factory and, apparentley, the largest market in the country. But, the trip took way longer than we thought and markets close early in Uzbekistan so it was already closed by the time we got there. We decided to leave the silk factory to the following day and headed on to Fergana city which was about a half hour further and where we were planning to stay the night.
We arrived in Fergana around 3pm. Nice city, very green, very planned (read: Soviet) and lots of people speaking Russian. We eventually found a place to stay at Valentina's Guest House. Unfortunately the place we were hoping to stay was booked up, but good old Lonely Planet saved the day. The guesthouse was turned out to be a three bedroom apartment on the 4th floor of one of the, well, typically Soviet apartment blocks that are unbelievably ubiquitous in Central Asia. Valentina was pleasant enough and only charged 10 dollars each. The place was.....not that clean and due to a few unpleasant discoveries we suspected that Valentina was usually able to fill it even when it wasn't tourist season. Know what I mean?
After dumping out bags, we set out the explore Fergana, which really just meant finding a restaurant as we were all starving. I think we lucked upon the best place in the city. A great patio place called, I think, Art Cafe. So we sat down, ate shashlik after shashlik watched some locals going to town on vodka and listened to Victory Day songs (Sunday was Victory Day). Quite an experience actually.
Really the only other thing of note in Fegana was Club Infiniti where we ventured about 10pm after touring around the city for a few hours. We arrived and walked up the stairs and were promptly told that the 'club' was already closed and that we should come back tomorrow at 7. It was kind of like a banquent hall with faded green carpet, neon lights and at least one giant cockroach. I suspect there may have been a few more (damnit, I saw one in my place the other day too).
Monday morning we headed back to Margelon to see the silk factory there. We did a tour and saw, among other things, the way string is extracted from the cocoons and the painfully painstaking carpet weaving. I do not have the knees for that job!
After the silk factory we gorged on the homemade bread made in, it seemed, every shop along the street leading into the silk factory. Amazing, it would be worth it to open an bakery in Canada and just sell Uzbek bread, I've never had anything like it.
After Margelon we continued on to Kokand, one of the three ancient Khanates in Uzbekistan (Khiva and Bukhara being the others). Nice city, we toured around a bit. It was actaully the first time we had real trouble communicating in Russian. But whatever, nothing communicates what you want to eat like a good point.
We finished up around 3pm and went to find a taxi back to Tashkent. Not too difficult and we got on the road quickly (after the guy we originally found decided he didn't want to go and sold the fare to his friend when we were already halfway out of town- weird). It was a loooooong trip back. Made longer by the torrential rainstorm that washed out the main road back to Tashkent. Imagine 4 lanes of typically impatient Uzbek drivers being merged into one and then told to turn around by a soaked, angry and flustered policeman. I've actually never seen an Uzbek cop do something helpful before (seriously).
There was, thankfully, a kind of side road that only took us about 20 km's out of the day. It too was already in the process of being washed out but was still passable when we got there. Driving through a torrent of water in a shaky old Daewoo was quite on experience. But we made it. Got back to Tashkent around 10 last night. Good trip, now back to work.
Thursday, May 6, 2010
The Kitchen Sink, Married with Children, Uzbek News in English and my Canadian Accent? Really?
While my apartment is nice to look at, the fixtures and appliances (wait, are those the same thing?)tend to be quite fragile. For example, about a month ago my kitchen sink stopped draining. It wasn't because of food being pushed down it but because the hose beneath had become twisted. Unfortunately, attempting to untwist the hose separated the hose from the pipe directly beneath the sneak....and the sink was still full of water. Dissapointing. I did manage to kind of push everything back together but this Tuesday while making dinner (yes, I was cooking), I heard a big thunk under the sink. The whole thing had come crashing down again. Fortunately, I realized when the problem first started that I am not a professional plumber and had stuck a bucket under the sink. Still a mess but not as bad. Anyway, I called my landlord and the next day the repair guy came over. He took one look at it, pulled out the piece of pipe directly below the sink and connected the hose that had originally been twisted directly to the wall pipe (not sure how to describe it) and the sink itself and that was that. I asked him what to do with the piece of pipe he'd pulled out and he said, 'ah put it in a box somewhere'.
I may have mentioned this before but there is currently a Russian remake of Married with Children. It's called 'Happy Together' and from what I've been told it's an epipode by episode remake (I don't remember the original that well). Anyway, I watched it a couple of times and the only real difference, other than the language and actors of course, is that it takes place in an apartment. I don't know, I think like watching Married with Children re-runs now, it's just not as funny as it was in 1989.
I usually flick right by the Uzbek channels, I think I get 3-4 of them. I mean I can't understand a word. Anyway, I couple of days ago I happened to pause for a second and realized that the 'news' anchor was sort of speaking English. Turns out my theory about Uzbek news was right...unbelievably boring and nothing is said.
And last....is there a Canadian accent? I mean maybe the people reading this aren't the most objective to ask but several times in the last few weeks people have mentioned my accent. I guess it's that whole pespective thing again, but when I ask about it the only answer I get is, 'you say roof and aboot!'
I may have mentioned this before but there is currently a Russian remake of Married with Children. It's called 'Happy Together' and from what I've been told it's an epipode by episode remake (I don't remember the original that well). Anyway, I watched it a couple of times and the only real difference, other than the language and actors of course, is that it takes place in an apartment. I don't know, I think like watching Married with Children re-runs now, it's just not as funny as it was in 1989.
I usually flick right by the Uzbek channels, I think I get 3-4 of them. I mean I can't understand a word. Anyway, I couple of days ago I happened to pause for a second and realized that the 'news' anchor was sort of speaking English. Turns out my theory about Uzbek news was right...unbelievably boring and nothing is said.
And last....is there a Canadian accent? I mean maybe the people reading this aren't the most objective to ask but several times in the last few weeks people have mentioned my accent. I guess it's that whole pespective thing again, but when I ask about it the only answer I get is, 'you say roof and aboot!'
Friday, April 30, 2010
Mosquitos, Perspective and the Norm
I had heard that mosquitos would start to be a problem here as the weather got warmer but, as I often do, didn't really pay any attention and completely forget to ask my landlord to install screens on the windows.
I still haven't turned on the air conditioning (other than to make sure it works) so when I get back from work I open the windows as the place is boiling hot (been in the 30's the past few days). So yesterday, like usual, I did that and closed them just before I went to bed. I woke up at 2am with about 50 mosquito bites. damnit. Why didn't I feel it after 5 or even 20?! I will be speaking with my landlord this weekend.
Perspective is an interesting thing. I don't get into political-type conversations too much here, especially with locals about local events. Obviously I talk to other ex-pats about it and I'm starting to find that some of the Russians, even those with Uzbek passports are a bit more open, at least to talking about what's going on with Russia. One of my Russian teachers, Inna, is one of the people I've been talking to. She's Russian, but holds an Uzbek passport, between 45 and 50 and teaches how I conceive of Soviet teachers teaching- basically rote learning. Anyway, I've been trying to break up my 3-times per week sessions of basically memorizing lists of words with some conversation. She's agreed it's a good idea and usually starts it off with some sort of a question about how the west perceives Russia (hmmmm...sound familiar to Canadians?) on a particular issue or how on earth the west could think one way about an issue when Russia's opinion is so clearly the right one. She'll then lay out why the Russian perpective is the right one (we were talking about the war in Georgia today) and does it so well she usually has me convinced. Anyway, just interesting.
I'm finding that things have become a lot more normal. Ok that's the wrong word, I'm getting used to being here. Probably why I'm not posting so often. I will make more of an effort for the next 4 months! Yikes, already two months in.
I still haven't turned on the air conditioning (other than to make sure it works) so when I get back from work I open the windows as the place is boiling hot (been in the 30's the past few days). So yesterday, like usual, I did that and closed them just before I went to bed. I woke up at 2am with about 50 mosquito bites. damnit. Why didn't I feel it after 5 or even 20?! I will be speaking with my landlord this weekend.
Perspective is an interesting thing. I don't get into political-type conversations too much here, especially with locals about local events. Obviously I talk to other ex-pats about it and I'm starting to find that some of the Russians, even those with Uzbek passports are a bit more open, at least to talking about what's going on with Russia. One of my Russian teachers, Inna, is one of the people I've been talking to. She's Russian, but holds an Uzbek passport, between 45 and 50 and teaches how I conceive of Soviet teachers teaching- basically rote learning. Anyway, I've been trying to break up my 3-times per week sessions of basically memorizing lists of words with some conversation. She's agreed it's a good idea and usually starts it off with some sort of a question about how the west perceives Russia (hmmmm...sound familiar to Canadians?) on a particular issue or how on earth the west could think one way about an issue when Russia's opinion is so clearly the right one. She'll then lay out why the Russian perpective is the right one (we were talking about the war in Georgia today) and does it so well she usually has me convinced. Anyway, just interesting.
I'm finding that things have become a lot more normal. Ok that's the wrong word, I'm getting used to being here. Probably why I'm not posting so often. I will make more of an effort for the next 4 months! Yikes, already two months in.
Saturday, April 24, 2010
The Rate, The Conversation and Fruit!
Well it turns out that money changer I refused to change with last week was right. Over the past few days the black market rate has been just about killed. Damn. There's a big conference in town next week so we're all hoping things will go back to normal after that. Man I donn't even know where an offical money changer is.
Last night I attended a small house party with a number of local expats. At one point I ended up in a conversation with two people who's first language was French and one who's first language was Spanish. The easiest language to communicate in was Russian so that's what we spoke. I know that sounds pompous, but whatever it was kind of cool and it's a tough laguage to learn.
Summer fruit has finally come to the bazaars. I just came back from buying two kilos of strawberries and I will be eating them all today. Didn't even negotiate. I heard last that they were now in stock and almost ran to get some this morning. So good, and not all white on the inside like the 'roid berries we get in Canada.
Not much else going on...short post today I guess. Go Canucks!
Last night I attended a small house party with a number of local expats. At one point I ended up in a conversation with two people who's first language was French and one who's first language was Spanish. The easiest language to communicate in was Russian so that's what we spoke. I know that sounds pompous, but whatever it was kind of cool and it's a tough laguage to learn.
Summer fruit has finally come to the bazaars. I just came back from buying two kilos of strawberries and I will be eating them all today. Didn't even negotiate. I heard last that they were now in stock and almost ran to get some this morning. So good, and not all white on the inside like the 'roid berries we get in Canada.
Not much else going on...short post today I guess. Go Canucks!
Thursday, April 22, 2010
Conspiracy (yes, I said it!), Chevys, My Street Vendor and МВД
Conspiracy theories abound here. I mean obviously and I am defiitely not gonna get into them all on this public blog. However, one that has affected most of us who exist in hard currency lately has been the plummeting black market exchange rate. I went to my usual spot to change money on Tuesday evening and the guy I found told me the rate was 2100 soums to the dollar. I was like, 'wtf last week it was 2300'. I asked him what the deal was and he said the government was trying to drive down the the black market rate to make it more comparable to the official rate. Not sure what that is exactly right now but you can find it on xe.com for example. It's way lower. I told him to forget it and I left. However the next day I tried somewhere else and while the rate was better it wasn't much better...maybe the first guy was right. Damnit, I hope prices come down accordingly but I suspect they won't.
What else....the most common car in Uzbekistan are Chevrolets. I bet you wouldn't have thought that. It surprised the heck outtta me too. They're the same Chevy models we'd find in North Americo too. Well at least the same as in Canada. I finally asked someone about it. Apparently and I haven't confirmed this, but there used to be a Daewoo (sp?) factory here that Chevy bought out a few years back. Everyone used to drive a Daewoo but now all locally produced (read: affordable) cars are Chevys. Apparently they can't even be exported to Russia (again, just what I've heard).
I'm still not a big fan of the bazaars here. They're huge, noisy, very much Uzbek affairs and I always feel like I'm getting scammed. Well, actually I know I'm always getting scammed. Not sure huge amounts, but still. Anyway one of the Uzbek guyss in my office has introduced me to the street vendor he goes too. She's Kazakh (or so he thinks) and sits three days a week with a few boxes of fruits on a street corner near my office. She doesn't jack up her prices and brings in only fruit that she thinks people will want. Best of all, all her front teeth are gold (it's a thing here). Anyway at least I'm eating more fruit now.
Finally, I think the news that Moscow Dinamo, one of the oldes hockey clubs in Russia, is likely going to fold, has been in the news in the west this morning. Well, I know it was because I spend half my day on cbc.ca and tsn.ca. Anyway, I've been wathching the KHL finals between AK BARS Kazan and МВД (which is the Russian Interior Ministry's team...so weird). Anyway, what I've found most amusing is their love for the 'Hey Hey Hey Goodbye' song. Even when the hometeam is losing it will come over the PA system. I guess it's just associated with hockey, but still kind of funny.
What else....the most common car in Uzbekistan are Chevrolets. I bet you wouldn't have thought that. It surprised the heck outtta me too. They're the same Chevy models we'd find in North Americo too. Well at least the same as in Canada. I finally asked someone about it. Apparently and I haven't confirmed this, but there used to be a Daewoo (sp?) factory here that Chevy bought out a few years back. Everyone used to drive a Daewoo but now all locally produced (read: affordable) cars are Chevys. Apparently they can't even be exported to Russia (again, just what I've heard).
I'm still not a big fan of the bazaars here. They're huge, noisy, very much Uzbek affairs and I always feel like I'm getting scammed. Well, actually I know I'm always getting scammed. Not sure huge amounts, but still. Anyway one of the Uzbek guyss in my office has introduced me to the street vendor he goes too. She's Kazakh (or so he thinks) and sits three days a week with a few boxes of fruits on a street corner near my office. She doesn't jack up her prices and brings in only fruit that she thinks people will want. Best of all, all her front teeth are gold (it's a thing here). Anyway at least I'm eating more fruit now.
Finally, I think the news that Moscow Dinamo, one of the oldes hockey clubs in Russia, is likely going to fold, has been in the news in the west this morning. Well, I know it was because I spend half my day on cbc.ca and tsn.ca. Anyway, I've been wathching the KHL finals between AK BARS Kazan and МВД (which is the Russian Interior Ministry's team...so weird). Anyway, what I've found most amusing is their love for the 'Hey Hey Hey Goodbye' song. Even when the hometeam is losing it will come over the PA system. I guess it's just associated with hockey, but still kind of funny.
Saturday, April 17, 2010
Back in Tashkent
Well it's been a fairly uneventful week. I flew back from Baku on Monday afternoon and went straight into the office- fun times. I really need to remember that there are two passport control areas at the Tashkent Airport. In one the Uzbeks only line is on right and in the other it's on the left. Everytime I've flown in it's taken me about a half hour to realize I am not in fact Uzbek and that I need to go to the back of one of the foreigners lines-yeesh.
Ummmm yeah, nothing too exciting. On Wednesday I had a drink with a few of the expats I usually hang out with. Once of them had a couple of new Couchsurfers staying with him. Have people heard about Couchsurfing? I hadn't. Not sure if it's couchsurfing.com or .org but apparently it's the ultimate in budget backpacking- a free couch (obviously). Anyway only one of these two couchsurfers came to the bar. Moscovites, these guys had hitchhiked from Moscow to Tashkent. I can't even imagine what that would have been like. This guy was very nice, quite interesting to talk to and definitely liked to travel the hard way. They're on their way, eventually, to Afghanistan. Good luck with that.
Today I was out an about running errands and noticed way more police on the streets than unusual. That's actually really saying somehing as sometimes it seems that half the population of Tashkent is walking around in stylish almost lime-green jumpsuits. I even had my backback swept with a medal detector when I was going into the Metro, which has not happened before. The thought occurs to me that it may have something to do with what happened in Kyrgyzstan (I've heard the border is closed). Could also just be that it was one of the first really nice spring days and the whole city was out today. Just part of the scenery I suppose.
Ummmm yeah, nothing too exciting. On Wednesday I had a drink with a few of the expats I usually hang out with. Once of them had a couple of new Couchsurfers staying with him. Have people heard about Couchsurfing? I hadn't. Not sure if it's couchsurfing.com or .org but apparently it's the ultimate in budget backpacking- a free couch (obviously). Anyway only one of these two couchsurfers came to the bar. Moscovites, these guys had hitchhiked from Moscow to Tashkent. I can't even imagine what that would have been like. This guy was very nice, quite interesting to talk to and definitely liked to travel the hard way. They're on their way, eventually, to Afghanistan. Good luck with that.
Today I was out an about running errands and noticed way more police on the streets than unusual. That's actually really saying somehing as sometimes it seems that half the population of Tashkent is walking around in stylish almost lime-green jumpsuits. I even had my backback swept with a medal detector when I was going into the Metro, which has not happened before. The thought occurs to me that it may have something to do with what happened in Kyrgyzstan (I've heard the border is closed). Could also just be that it was one of the first really nice spring days and the whole city was out today. Just part of the scenery I suppose.
Monday, April 12, 2010
Tashkent-Nukus-Kunye/Urgench-Darvaza-Ashgabat-Baku-Tashkent
Ugh, I am starting this post at 430am at the Baku Airport. The quick trip has come to an end and my buddy and I shared an early cab out here for our flights, to our, at least current, homes (can't quite bring myself to call Tashkent home). His flight is actually a few hours before mine but it's a bit of a pricey cab ride out here so we thought it'd be smarter to split it.
It's been a good trip. Furiously fast, but what's a vacation without a few good death marches right? We flew out of Tashkent last Tuesday evening to Nukus in the west of Uzbekistan. We were actually on a Tu-154. I mean I know the news is saying it was pilot error in Smolensk, but still a little creepy.
Nukus is the regional (provincial?) capital of Karakalpakstan. Karakalpaks are a separate ethnic group from Uzbeks, with their own language, although it's still a Turkic language.
So we arrived at the airport and while waiting for our bags were offered a ride by a taxi driver waiting in the baggage area. He asked for what we thought was a reasonable rate, so we accepted. Unfortunately the power then went out at the airport, just for a few minutes, but it dragged the wait out a bit. Feeling the need to make conversation and having asked 2(3?) times about the weather I asked him how big Nukus is? His immediate response was, 'I don't know, I'm not political.' And that was pretty much the end of the conversation.
In a country, where, well, not everything is open for discussion, Nukus and the surrounding region are even more sensitive because it's the closest city of any substantial size close to the Aral Sea. At least what's left of it.
The city is desolate, almost post-apocalyptic in appearance. It seems like a salt-coated rusted out hulk of a town that once had a fair amount of life.
After a night at a pretty decent hotel we headed for the border with Turkmenistan, about 30 kilometres away. Same cab driver, so it was a quiet ride. Watching Nukus go by doesn't exactly engender conversation though so at least it didn't for my friend and I.
So we got to the border and, again, won't say too much about state-related stuff (hopefully what I said about Nukus won't be an issue- note the changed blog title). For all border crossings here there are both entry and exit customs and immigration. While both the exiting and the entering were lengthy during this crossing what we both really noticed was the HUGE difference in, well, attitude by the guards on both sides of the border. To call the Uzbek side, which we obviously went through first, dour would be an understatement. After a couple of hours we got through and walked, a bit apprehensively, to the Turkmen side where the guards were very welcoming. I mean we were a curiosity to them, bit still, it was much appreciated after the first side of the process.
At Turkmen immigration, we met up with our guide (a requirement in Turkmenistan) Asis and once we cleared through everything met our driver Yazmurat.
Asis was, well still is, a young guy (26 as I recall) with good English and was, ostensibly, in charge for the trip south through to the capital Ashgabat.
Yazmurat is probably about 60, speaks about 10 words of English and grizzled does not even describe his appearance. But does he know the desert.
Oh, and to just set it up a bit better Uzbekistan is north of Turmenistan and we drove all the way through to the south of the country to the capital Ashgabat which is close to the Turkmen border with Iran.
So right of the bat we drove to Kunye-Urgench, the Turkmen border town, to change some money. Interestingly, and just anecdotally, while the level of economic development and environmental...devastation seemed similar on both aides of the border, there seemen to be much more, well, life on the Turkmen side. It could very well be that we were in Kunye-Urgench later in the day (we were through Nukus by 8am) but it was a Wednesday.
We arrived at the bazaar to change money and were pleasanty surprised to find that Turkmenistan has switched from the Manat to the New Manat. I have no idea how finance works but I can say that the last time I was in Turkmenistan 3 years ago changing 200 dollars would have resulted in an enormous stack of bills while 200 dollars is now worth about 570 New Manat- which easily fits in your pocket. Much easier to deal with. Unfortunately Uzbekistan has not followed suit. I will, eventually, send out a photo of the enormous pile of Soums I received when I recently changed 400 dollars in Tashkent.
Anyway, we changed money, saw some ruins in the north of the country and then headed south to the Darvaza gas crater located, I believe, in about the geographical centre of the country.
The plan was to camp in the desert, by the gas crater, for the evening and then continue on to Ashgabat the next day. The gas crater, which is enormous, formed in the early 1950's when Soviet engineers were working on a pipeline to pipe Turkmen gas well, somewhere (Russia I guess). Something went wrong and a huge pocket collapsed, caught fire, and has been burning ever since. I'd been there before bit it is truly an amazing experience. We arrived about midday and setup camp. The road south from almost the border has actually been greatly improved so it made for a much easier and faster trip than last time.
I can't say my buddy and I did a lot to help with the setup. We helped put up our tent, but that was about it. The rest was Yazmurat with help from Asis. Well my perception was that Yazmurat was barking orders (in Turkmen) and Asis was doing. Asia wasn't really the outdoorsy type.
By the time camp was set up and we'd eaten the sun was down and we headed down to explore the crater. Well, I'll send out photos but I guess I'd equate it, at least in appearance to a volcano. No flowing lava though.
After a, well, cozy night we packed up and continued on to Ashgabat. Unfortunately my buddy got stung 3 times by a scorpion just before we left. It hurt pretty good. We found it and showed it to Yazmurat who said it wasn't a bug we needed to be concerned about. He then said that drinking vodka could kill any venom. That didn't leave us feeling sure. But we drove on, nothing else we could do. The stings were on leg and didn't seem to be spreading which seemed good.
After a few more hours of driving we arrived in Ashgabat, although with one more stop outside the city so Yazmurat could wipe the dust off his car so he didn't get stopped by the traffic police.
Ashgabat is amazing. I mean it was a provincial Soviet town that since Turkmenistan's independence has been in large part, at least in the centre, almost entirely razed and replace by mammoth, almost always white buildings, monuments and especially fountains.
Our hote (Hotel Azia) is in a row of hotels, mostly empty that make up Berzengi, a suburb just outside of town. It's ok....had actually been somewhat renovated since the last time I stayed there in 2007.
For the next couple of days we explored Ashgabat. Again, I'll send out photos of us standing in front of various things in the next day or so.
On Friday we actaully did the Walk of Health. Actually we did part of one of the two walks, which are staircases built into the side of mountains outside of town. The long walk is 20+ km's, mostly up and crosses or a least hits the border with Iran- we gave that one a miss. We had to cab it out to the walks and the driver suggested we do the first two km's of the shorter, 8km walk and he'd wait for us. Was nice, very scenic, and probably staved off an unpleasant scene as by midday Friday both of us were starting to come down with some viscious food posioning that we are both still feeling today.
So, thanks for reading this far by the way, Friday evening we mostly stayed in to deal with....well, I'll spare everyone the gory details and then got up at a leisurely 130am for our flight to Baku, Azerbaijan. Flights from this part of the world heading west always seem to leave at ungodly hours (which is why we were at the Baku airport at 345 this morning-yeesh).
We got to the Ashgabat airport tired, sick and grumpy. The airport was a bit chaotic, but not too bad. We got through customs and immigration, headed for the gate and then we saw it. Shining on the runway, the most beautiful site I've seen since Feb 22nd- a Lufthansa Airbus A340, our flight to Baku (it starts in Ashgabat, stops in Baku and continues on to Franfurt). I love Lufthansa. Plus the plane was almost empty, I guess a lotta people get on in Baku. Was a nice luxury break. Very nice, almost too short. We both considered stowing away to Frankfurt.
Anyway, we arrived in Baku about 6am on Saturday morning. We had a place booked in the city centre and had to find a cab into town. We had a general idea how much to pay. We weren't sure of the current exchange rate but negotiated ruthlessly with the cab drivers. I think we were both getting sick of paying too much. Although I should note that when I say 'ruthlessly', what I actually mean was we went to the first guy we found and just kept refusing until he gave in. At least we thought he did. When we finally got to our place, he again demanded what he originally asked for at the airport. I, in no uncertain terms said, 'пошел ты!' (.....um let's say, 'pound sand') and we walked away.
The place we booked was a hostel and what a dump. A Private room with two beds and ensuite bathroom turned out to be large room with bunkbeds, many people and a very shared bathroom (and pronably a Turkish toilet, which neither if us were in any condition to use- gross!)
We walked in, took one look, decided we couldn't stay and walked out to find something else. Took a probably an hour and a half but we eventually got ourselves set up in a great mid-range place right in the city centre.
For the rest of Saturday and Sunday we explored Baku. Due to illness, it was a bit of a slow go but I think we got a good sense of the city. Even did a museum, gotta do one on a trip like this I figure. It was actually the Museum of Independence. We specifically saved our one museum trip ( and never more than one!) for it to see how recent Azeri history would be portrayed....I think the Armenian version would have a different perspective.
Baku is really a city under construction with lots and lots more foreigners than Tashkent (oil). Wandering around we found, more than once actually, groupsof several city blocks entirely under constructions.
And there were ATM's! Wonderful ATM's that I could actually get money out of. No Starbucks, dammit, but there is McDonalds, so we ate there yesterday afternoon. Don't eat it that often in Canada but it was definitely a nice taste of the west that is nowhere to be found in Tashkent.
Ok a bit of a footnote, It's now 8am (4 hours into this wait). About 45 minutes ago I went to have breakfast at a downstairs cafe by the arrivals area. I can't actually pass through security till check-in opens for my flight. Anyway I finished up and started heading back up to the departures level. As I was walking to the escalator who do I see walking towards me? Yup, the same taxi driver. I thought it might be a bit of a problem but he didn't recognize me and was just hustling for fares. I told him I was flying and he lost interest. Yeesh.
Ok, well that was super long, hope it was somewhat interesting.
It's been a good trip. Furiously fast, but what's a vacation without a few good death marches right? We flew out of Tashkent last Tuesday evening to Nukus in the west of Uzbekistan. We were actually on a Tu-154. I mean I know the news is saying it was pilot error in Smolensk, but still a little creepy.
Nukus is the regional (provincial?) capital of Karakalpakstan. Karakalpaks are a separate ethnic group from Uzbeks, with their own language, although it's still a Turkic language.
So we arrived at the airport and while waiting for our bags were offered a ride by a taxi driver waiting in the baggage area. He asked for what we thought was a reasonable rate, so we accepted. Unfortunately the power then went out at the airport, just for a few minutes, but it dragged the wait out a bit. Feeling the need to make conversation and having asked 2(3?) times about the weather I asked him how big Nukus is? His immediate response was, 'I don't know, I'm not political.' And that was pretty much the end of the conversation.
In a country, where, well, not everything is open for discussion, Nukus and the surrounding region are even more sensitive because it's the closest city of any substantial size close to the Aral Sea. At least what's left of it.
The city is desolate, almost post-apocalyptic in appearance. It seems like a salt-coated rusted out hulk of a town that once had a fair amount of life.
After a night at a pretty decent hotel we headed for the border with Turkmenistan, about 30 kilometres away. Same cab driver, so it was a quiet ride. Watching Nukus go by doesn't exactly engender conversation though so at least it didn't for my friend and I.
So we got to the border and, again, won't say too much about state-related stuff (hopefully what I said about Nukus won't be an issue- note the changed blog title). For all border crossings here there are both entry and exit customs and immigration. While both the exiting and the entering were lengthy during this crossing what we both really noticed was the HUGE difference in, well, attitude by the guards on both sides of the border. To call the Uzbek side, which we obviously went through first, dour would be an understatement. After a couple of hours we got through and walked, a bit apprehensively, to the Turkmen side where the guards were very welcoming. I mean we were a curiosity to them, bit still, it was much appreciated after the first side of the process.
At Turkmen immigration, we met up with our guide (a requirement in Turkmenistan) Asis and once we cleared through everything met our driver Yazmurat.
Asis was, well still is, a young guy (26 as I recall) with good English and was, ostensibly, in charge for the trip south through to the capital Ashgabat.
Yazmurat is probably about 60, speaks about 10 words of English and grizzled does not even describe his appearance. But does he know the desert.
Oh, and to just set it up a bit better Uzbekistan is north of Turmenistan and we drove all the way through to the south of the country to the capital Ashgabat which is close to the Turkmen border with Iran.
So right of the bat we drove to Kunye-Urgench, the Turkmen border town, to change some money. Interestingly, and just anecdotally, while the level of economic development and environmental...devastation seemed similar on both aides of the border, there seemen to be much more, well, life on the Turkmen side. It could very well be that we were in Kunye-Urgench later in the day (we were through Nukus by 8am) but it was a Wednesday.
We arrived at the bazaar to change money and were pleasanty surprised to find that Turkmenistan has switched from the Manat to the New Manat. I have no idea how finance works but I can say that the last time I was in Turkmenistan 3 years ago changing 200 dollars would have resulted in an enormous stack of bills while 200 dollars is now worth about 570 New Manat- which easily fits in your pocket. Much easier to deal with. Unfortunately Uzbekistan has not followed suit. I will, eventually, send out a photo of the enormous pile of Soums I received when I recently changed 400 dollars in Tashkent.
Anyway, we changed money, saw some ruins in the north of the country and then headed south to the Darvaza gas crater located, I believe, in about the geographical centre of the country.
The plan was to camp in the desert, by the gas crater, for the evening and then continue on to Ashgabat the next day. The gas crater, which is enormous, formed in the early 1950's when Soviet engineers were working on a pipeline to pipe Turkmen gas well, somewhere (Russia I guess). Something went wrong and a huge pocket collapsed, caught fire, and has been burning ever since. I'd been there before bit it is truly an amazing experience. We arrived about midday and setup camp. The road south from almost the border has actually been greatly improved so it made for a much easier and faster trip than last time.
I can't say my buddy and I did a lot to help with the setup. We helped put up our tent, but that was about it. The rest was Yazmurat with help from Asis. Well my perception was that Yazmurat was barking orders (in Turkmen) and Asis was doing. Asia wasn't really the outdoorsy type.
By the time camp was set up and we'd eaten the sun was down and we headed down to explore the crater. Well, I'll send out photos but I guess I'd equate it, at least in appearance to a volcano. No flowing lava though.
After a, well, cozy night we packed up and continued on to Ashgabat. Unfortunately my buddy got stung 3 times by a scorpion just before we left. It hurt pretty good. We found it and showed it to Yazmurat who said it wasn't a bug we needed to be concerned about. He then said that drinking vodka could kill any venom. That didn't leave us feeling sure. But we drove on, nothing else we could do. The stings were on leg and didn't seem to be spreading which seemed good.
After a few more hours of driving we arrived in Ashgabat, although with one more stop outside the city so Yazmurat could wipe the dust off his car so he didn't get stopped by the traffic police.
Ashgabat is amazing. I mean it was a provincial Soviet town that since Turkmenistan's independence has been in large part, at least in the centre, almost entirely razed and replace by mammoth, almost always white buildings, monuments and especially fountains.
Our hote (Hotel Azia) is in a row of hotels, mostly empty that make up Berzengi, a suburb just outside of town. It's ok....had actually been somewhat renovated since the last time I stayed there in 2007.
For the next couple of days we explored Ashgabat. Again, I'll send out photos of us standing in front of various things in the next day or so.
On Friday we actaully did the Walk of Health. Actually we did part of one of the two walks, which are staircases built into the side of mountains outside of town. The long walk is 20+ km's, mostly up and crosses or a least hits the border with Iran- we gave that one a miss. We had to cab it out to the walks and the driver suggested we do the first two km's of the shorter, 8km walk and he'd wait for us. Was nice, very scenic, and probably staved off an unpleasant scene as by midday Friday both of us were starting to come down with some viscious food posioning that we are both still feeling today.
So, thanks for reading this far by the way, Friday evening we mostly stayed in to deal with....well, I'll spare everyone the gory details and then got up at a leisurely 130am for our flight to Baku, Azerbaijan. Flights from this part of the world heading west always seem to leave at ungodly hours (which is why we were at the Baku airport at 345 this morning-yeesh).
We got to the Ashgabat airport tired, sick and grumpy. The airport was a bit chaotic, but not too bad. We got through customs and immigration, headed for the gate and then we saw it. Shining on the runway, the most beautiful site I've seen since Feb 22nd- a Lufthansa Airbus A340, our flight to Baku (it starts in Ashgabat, stops in Baku and continues on to Franfurt). I love Lufthansa. Plus the plane was almost empty, I guess a lotta people get on in Baku. Was a nice luxury break. Very nice, almost too short. We both considered stowing away to Frankfurt.
Anyway, we arrived in Baku about 6am on Saturday morning. We had a place booked in the city centre and had to find a cab into town. We had a general idea how much to pay. We weren't sure of the current exchange rate but negotiated ruthlessly with the cab drivers. I think we were both getting sick of paying too much. Although I should note that when I say 'ruthlessly', what I actually mean was we went to the first guy we found and just kept refusing until he gave in. At least we thought he did. When we finally got to our place, he again demanded what he originally asked for at the airport. I, in no uncertain terms said, 'пошел ты!' (.....um let's say, 'pound sand') and we walked away.
The place we booked was a hostel and what a dump. A Private room with two beds and ensuite bathroom turned out to be large room with bunkbeds, many people and a very shared bathroom (and pronably a Turkish toilet, which neither if us were in any condition to use- gross!)
We walked in, took one look, decided we couldn't stay and walked out to find something else. Took a probably an hour and a half but we eventually got ourselves set up in a great mid-range place right in the city centre.
For the rest of Saturday and Sunday we explored Baku. Due to illness, it was a bit of a slow go but I think we got a good sense of the city. Even did a museum, gotta do one on a trip like this I figure. It was actually the Museum of Independence. We specifically saved our one museum trip ( and never more than one!) for it to see how recent Azeri history would be portrayed....I think the Armenian version would have a different perspective.
Baku is really a city under construction with lots and lots more foreigners than Tashkent (oil). Wandering around we found, more than once actually, groupsof several city blocks entirely under constructions.
And there were ATM's! Wonderful ATM's that I could actually get money out of. No Starbucks, dammit, but there is McDonalds, so we ate there yesterday afternoon. Don't eat it that often in Canada but it was definitely a nice taste of the west that is nowhere to be found in Tashkent.
Ok a bit of a footnote, It's now 8am (4 hours into this wait). About 45 minutes ago I went to have breakfast at a downstairs cafe by the arrivals area. I can't actually pass through security till check-in opens for my flight. Anyway I finished up and started heading back up to the departures level. As I was walking to the escalator who do I see walking towards me? Yup, the same taxi driver. I thought it might be a bit of a problem but he didn't recognize me and was just hustling for fares. I told him I was flying and he lost interest. Yeesh.
Ok, well that was super long, hope it was somewhat interesting.
Monday, April 5, 2010
The American Embassy, Bukhara and Shiny Suits
Last week, middle of the week, I got an email forward from one the guys in the group I've been hanging out with. It was from the Sgt. of the US Marine section to(group?) at the US Embassy in Taskent inviting him and any guests he wanted to invite to the weekly Marine, well, party, at the embassy.
So on Friday night myself and about 6 others trooped out to the embassy to see what is was all about. Not too get into too much detail (public blog and all), but the US embassy in Tashkent is an unbelievably huge fortress. I'd say every Canadian embassy in the world could probably fit into it's courtyard.
The evening was mostly US embassy staff and a few other invited guests. Was actually quite fun. Felt a little strange to be there at first, but everyone was very friendly. Didn't stay late as my buddy was flying in at the usual Tashkent arrival time (4am) so I had to get out to the airport.
Having been the confused foreigner walking into the, well, mob scene at the arrivals area of the Tashkent airport a couple of times it was quite amusing to watch others doing it. You walk out of the customs area and are almost immediately into a kind of chute (park benches- seriously) of mostly cab drivers wanting to charge you $20 for the 2 minute ride into the city. It's pretty easy to tell who's arriving for the first time. Some people hurry down the chute, trying to look purposeful. Others stop and pretend like they're reaching for something in their bags, all the while nervvously looking around. It's a scene.
Anyway, my buddy arrived and we headed for Bukhara on a domestic flight. Bukhara is, according to Lonely Planet, the holiest city in Central Asia (or at least Uzbekistan). Regardless it's got lot of monuments and the weather is usually pretty nice. Was a good weekend. Anyway, we came back last night, he got a guide for the day today and I went back to work, not that exciting.
Oh and I've come to a very important life decision. I've decided I'm going to do my Phd. The genius theory that I've come up with is this: a country's political development is inversely proportional (proportionate?) to the percentage of the population wearing shiny suits. What do you think? Not to be too mean, but there're a lotta shiny suits in Uzbekistan. How do they stay so shiny?
Anyway, we are off to Nukus in the west of the country tomorrow and are then crossing the border into Turkmenistan on Wednesday morning. No internet will be happening in Turkmenistan, so I'll either blog from Baku on Saturday or hold off till I'm back in Tashkent on Monday. I'll try to remember all the weirdness! Oh wait, I mean the glory...yeah that's it.
So on Friday night myself and about 6 others trooped out to the embassy to see what is was all about. Not too get into too much detail (public blog and all), but the US embassy in Tashkent is an unbelievably huge fortress. I'd say every Canadian embassy in the world could probably fit into it's courtyard.
The evening was mostly US embassy staff and a few other invited guests. Was actually quite fun. Felt a little strange to be there at first, but everyone was very friendly. Didn't stay late as my buddy was flying in at the usual Tashkent arrival time (4am) so I had to get out to the airport.
Having been the confused foreigner walking into the, well, mob scene at the arrivals area of the Tashkent airport a couple of times it was quite amusing to watch others doing it. You walk out of the customs area and are almost immediately into a kind of chute (park benches- seriously) of mostly cab drivers wanting to charge you $20 for the 2 minute ride into the city. It's pretty easy to tell who's arriving for the first time. Some people hurry down the chute, trying to look purposeful. Others stop and pretend like they're reaching for something in their bags, all the while nervvously looking around. It's a scene.
Anyway, my buddy arrived and we headed for Bukhara on a domestic flight. Bukhara is, according to Lonely Planet, the holiest city in Central Asia (or at least Uzbekistan). Regardless it's got lot of monuments and the weather is usually pretty nice. Was a good weekend. Anyway, we came back last night, he got a guide for the day today and I went back to work, not that exciting.
Oh and I've come to a very important life decision. I've decided I'm going to do my Phd. The genius theory that I've come up with is this: a country's political development is inversely proportional (proportionate?) to the percentage of the population wearing shiny suits. What do you think? Not to be too mean, but there're a lotta shiny suits in Uzbekistan. How do they stay so shiny?
Anyway, we are off to Nukus in the west of the country tomorrow and are then crossing the border into Turkmenistan on Wednesday morning. No internet will be happening in Turkmenistan, so I'll either blog from Baku on Saturday or hold off till I'm back in Tashkent on Monday. I'll try to remember all the weirdness! Oh wait, I mean the glory...yeah that's it.
Thursday, April 1, 2010
Haggle Till you Drop
That's a description on how to negotiate given at some point in Lonely Plantet's Central Asia guide and it holds true for pretty any monetary transaction here. I mean there are exception but in any situation where there is not a pre-determined/labelled price you could really wind up paying anything.
'Taxis' can be the worst. '' because, like in Russia, you can stand at the side of road with your hand out and someone will stop almost immediately. Like hitchiking but it ain't free. You then say where you're going, the guy won't know, you explain in general terms, he says he knows (yeah right) and then ask how much. He then says, 'how much will you give me?' and the negotiation starts. When I first arrived I asked what were generally good prices to go, for example, from my apartment to downtown. However, stupidly, I was at first starting with what I thought was a reasonable prince meaning what I thought I should be paying. Of course that ended up meaning that I was paying quite a bit more than I should have been. I hate doing it, haggling over pennies (seriously, it costs about a dollar to get downtown from my place), but at the same time it's annoying when a guy asks way too much because he knows I'm a foreigner- I'm probably the only person in Tashkent wearing a red shirt today (black clothes are very popular). My solution has just been to massively low-ball and then take whatever he comes back with as it's probably reasonable.
Sometimes it doesn't work, which is ok as I then get into the next car that has inevitably pulled up behind hopeing to get my fare instead of the first car.
The Turkmen and Azeri visas came through which is excellent. My friend arrrives on the weekend. We're going to Bukhara till Sunday night then back to Tashkent so he can explore for a couple days while I work. Then on Tuesday night it's off to Nukus (still in Uzbekistan) and then we're driving across the Turkmen border on Wednesday morning. Should be a great trip. Unfortunately we won't have time for the ferry across the caspian, so we're flying, but at least that'll give us more time in Ashgabat, Baku and most importantly, the giant, flaming, gas crater (I will send out photos).
'Taxis' can be the worst. '' because, like in Russia, you can stand at the side of road with your hand out and someone will stop almost immediately. Like hitchiking but it ain't free. You then say where you're going, the guy won't know, you explain in general terms, he says he knows (yeah right) and then ask how much. He then says, 'how much will you give me?' and the negotiation starts. When I first arrived I asked what were generally good prices to go, for example, from my apartment to downtown. However, stupidly, I was at first starting with what I thought was a reasonable prince meaning what I thought I should be paying. Of course that ended up meaning that I was paying quite a bit more than I should have been. I hate doing it, haggling over pennies (seriously, it costs about a dollar to get downtown from my place), but at the same time it's annoying when a guy asks way too much because he knows I'm a foreigner- I'm probably the only person in Tashkent wearing a red shirt today (black clothes are very popular). My solution has just been to massively low-ball and then take whatever he comes back with as it's probably reasonable.
Sometimes it doesn't work, which is ok as I then get into the next car that has inevitably pulled up behind hopeing to get my fare instead of the first car.
The Turkmen and Azeri visas came through which is excellent. My friend arrrives on the weekend. We're going to Bukhara till Sunday night then back to Tashkent so he can explore for a couple days while I work. Then on Tuesday night it's off to Nukus (still in Uzbekistan) and then we're driving across the Turkmen border on Wednesday morning. Should be a great trip. Unfortunately we won't have time for the ferry across the caspian, so we're flying, but at least that'll give us more time in Ashgabat, Baku and most importantly, the giant, flaming, gas crater (I will send out photos).
Tuesday, March 30, 2010
Peggy's
Last night I went to Peggy's. Peggy's is a tex-mex restaurant and, actually quite a good one. The location is totally bizarre though. It's located way out in the, I'm gonna say western (although I'm not actually which direction we went) part of Tashkent. The road has no street lights and the only way the taxi driver will know where to go is if you tell him to stop at the champagne factory which is, apparently, close by.
Anyway, like most 'up-scale' places in the former Soviet Union, they are all about the face-contol. It's like a dress-code but based on your complete appearance, not just what you're wearing. We passed and were allowed in. It's huge and actually quite well done up inside. Kind of looks like a Montana's. Anyway, not that interesting but was just kind of surreal to be in a place like that in Uzbekistan. Even had a band that played really good CCR, Eric Clapton and Dire Straights cover tunes. Almost felt like I was back in the west.
Anyway, like most 'up-scale' places in the former Soviet Union, they are all about the face-contol. It's like a dress-code but based on your complete appearance, not just what you're wearing. We passed and were allowed in. It's huge and actually quite well done up inside. Kind of looks like a Montana's. Anyway, not that interesting but was just kind of surreal to be in a place like that in Uzbekistan. Even had a band that played really good CCR, Eric Clapton and Dire Straights cover tunes. Almost felt like I was back in the west.
Saturday, March 27, 2010
The Tashkent Metro, Uzbek University and the Police
I've been trying to take the metro as much as I can. It's extremely cheap, maybe 20 cents Canadian to ride and covers most the city. Unfortunately my apartment is conveniently located next to a future station. Same as Russian metros (and maybe other places in the world, I don't know) stations and even lines to be built at some point in the future are already on the system map- can make it a bit confusing. Anyway there're about 2-and-a-half lines that work and it looks a lot like the Moscow Metro- grandiose, deep stations. I guess really the big differences are; train frequency, it's definitely not like Moscow where as soon as one train pulls out of the station you can already see the lights for the next one; and leaky stations, there is seriously water pouring into some of them- I guess that's the drainage system?
A few days ago I enrolled as a student at the Uzbek State World Languages University- which apparently is the third largest university in Uzbekistan and, as the name implies, is entirely dedicated to languages. On Monday I'm starting a 5-month intensive Russian course. If I'm not fluent in this damn language by September I'm switching to Spanish! Definitely never thought I'd be able to say I was a student at an Uzbek university.
Ah I knew some run-ins with the police were inevitable (maybe it's karma coming back to get me for always surrepitituously taking their picture). Two things happened this week- the first was just annoying the second a little more ominous.
I have to walk right by the Israeli Embassy to get to work. Israel, as I understand it has a good or at least close relationship with Uzbekistan because of the 2 large Jewish communities here (Bukharan Jews who have been here, well, forever and Russian Jews). Anyway, like all embassies here there are Uzbek police standing out front. However, Israel also employs their own guards, I assume army guys who roam the street outside the embassy. Anyway, last Tuesdsay I'm walking to work and I see one of the guards talking to an Uzbek cop about 50 metres in front of me. That cop then starts to walk to towards, me comes up and starts questioning me as to who I am and what I'm doing there. So I tell him I work at the UN, there are two UN offices on the street and he backs right off- propbably thinking I have the diplomatic accreditation that paid UN staff get, which I don't. Anyway, obviously the guard had pointed me out, and I had to walk right by him. Using restraint, I only glared- pretty sure that wasn't a big wallet on his hip. The rest of the week he wouldn't look me in the eye as I walked by- made me feel tough.
Then this morning, just before noon my doorbell rings. There is a door with a keypad at the entrance to the building but it's often left open. I hesitated for second as I've been warned to never open my door here. But it's kind of knee-jerk reaction, so I opened it and there were two Uzbek cops- and I thought, 'ah crap'. One of them said something to me in Uzbek, which I of course didn't understand and then asked to see my passport, which I showed him. I asked if there was problem and they said no everything was fine. The second cop then said he needed to take a picture of the first cop checking my passport. I said ok, obviously? So the first cop goes into his passport scrutiny mode, the second cop sets up with the camera he had with him and I of course gave my biggest, 'wtf?' smile for the camera. The second cop then told me not to smile and to look like I was paying attention to what the first one was doing- which I did. They took the picture and left.
I think they could have ended up their for a number of reasons: such as suspicious neighbours, there's at least one cop living in the building, but it seemed more like they were going through the motions- like they were told they had to be there and document that they did it. I did have to register with the police that I'm living in this place. Anyway, I take solace in the fact that I have the 'UN holy sh*t' number in my phone. Basically if I get in real trouble I can call the number and a white with blue letters UN SUV shows up pretty quick and deals with the problem (even for volunteer staff) - I know someone who had to call it last week. Interesting experience though.
A few days ago I enrolled as a student at the Uzbek State World Languages University- which apparently is the third largest university in Uzbekistan and, as the name implies, is entirely dedicated to languages. On Monday I'm starting a 5-month intensive Russian course. If I'm not fluent in this damn language by September I'm switching to Spanish! Definitely never thought I'd be able to say I was a student at an Uzbek university.
Ah I knew some run-ins with the police were inevitable (maybe it's karma coming back to get me for always surrepitituously taking their picture). Two things happened this week- the first was just annoying the second a little more ominous.
I have to walk right by the Israeli Embassy to get to work. Israel, as I understand it has a good or at least close relationship with Uzbekistan because of the 2 large Jewish communities here (Bukharan Jews who have been here, well, forever and Russian Jews). Anyway, like all embassies here there are Uzbek police standing out front. However, Israel also employs their own guards, I assume army guys who roam the street outside the embassy. Anyway, last Tuesdsay I'm walking to work and I see one of the guards talking to an Uzbek cop about 50 metres in front of me. That cop then starts to walk to towards, me comes up and starts questioning me as to who I am and what I'm doing there. So I tell him I work at the UN, there are two UN offices on the street and he backs right off- propbably thinking I have the diplomatic accreditation that paid UN staff get, which I don't. Anyway, obviously the guard had pointed me out, and I had to walk right by him. Using restraint, I only glared- pretty sure that wasn't a big wallet on his hip. The rest of the week he wouldn't look me in the eye as I walked by- made me feel tough.
Then this morning, just before noon my doorbell rings. There is a door with a keypad at the entrance to the building but it's often left open. I hesitated for second as I've been warned to never open my door here. But it's kind of knee-jerk reaction, so I opened it and there were two Uzbek cops- and I thought, 'ah crap'. One of them said something to me in Uzbek, which I of course didn't understand and then asked to see my passport, which I showed him. I asked if there was problem and they said no everything was fine. The second cop then said he needed to take a picture of the first cop checking my passport. I said ok, obviously? So the first cop goes into his passport scrutiny mode, the second cop sets up with the camera he had with him and I of course gave my biggest, 'wtf?' smile for the camera. The second cop then told me not to smile and to look like I was paying attention to what the first one was doing- which I did. They took the picture and left.
I think they could have ended up their for a number of reasons: such as suspicious neighbours, there's at least one cop living in the building, but it seemed more like they were going through the motions- like they were told they had to be there and document that they did it. I did have to register with the police that I'm living in this place. Anyway, I take solace in the fact that I have the 'UN holy sh*t' number in my phone. Basically if I get in real trouble I can call the number and a white with blue letters UN SUV shows up pretty quick and deals with the problem (even for volunteer staff) - I know someone who had to call it last week. Interesting experience though.
Wednesday, March 24, 2010
Currency Exchange?
Can you tell my home internet is working?
I think I'm made reference to it before but Uzbekistan operates a dual exchange rate system (not sure about the proper terminology). There's an offical rate and a black-market rate which is much lower (or higher- you get more money back when you exchange at the black market rate). So of course everyone exchanges at the black market rate unless forced to change at the official rate. For example when I paid for my residency permit I had to show a receipt saying I'd exchanged at official rate.
There's a bazaar about a 5 minute walk from my apartment and I've been changing there. The changers stand out front and just say 'dollar/euro' as you walk by. You ask them what the rate is and if you agree you make the exchange, count it if you think you need to and carry-on.
Anyway, the blackmarket rate has been going up/down (you're getting more and more back lately). So everytime I've been exchanging I've been getting more and more money. Today I went to a guy I hadn't been to be before. He seemed a little unsure of himself (most of them are very confident). He quoted me a rate that was quite a bit better than last week, which was the last time I did it. I said yes, we made the change and I left.
I got about a hundred metres and I heard him yelling and running after me. I turned around and he comes panting up sheepishingly. 'What's the problem?' I asked.....'uh I gave you the wrong rate (he gave me too much).' Seriously, world's most imcompetent black-market money changer, I can tell you where to find him.
I think I'm made reference to it before but Uzbekistan operates a dual exchange rate system (not sure about the proper terminology). There's an offical rate and a black-market rate which is much lower (or higher- you get more money back when you exchange at the black market rate). So of course everyone exchanges at the black market rate unless forced to change at the official rate. For example when I paid for my residency permit I had to show a receipt saying I'd exchanged at official rate.
There's a bazaar about a 5 minute walk from my apartment and I've been changing there. The changers stand out front and just say 'dollar/euro' as you walk by. You ask them what the rate is and if you agree you make the exchange, count it if you think you need to and carry-on.
Anyway, the blackmarket rate has been going up/down (you're getting more and more back lately). So everytime I've been exchanging I've been getting more and more money. Today I went to a guy I hadn't been to be before. He seemed a little unsure of himself (most of them are very confident). He quoted me a rate that was quite a bit better than last week, which was the last time I did it. I said yes, we made the change and I left.
I got about a hundred metres and I heard him yelling and running after me. I turned around and he comes panting up sheepishingly. 'What's the problem?' I asked.....'uh I gave you the wrong rate (he gave me too much).' Seriously, world's most imcompetent black-market money changer, I can tell you where to find him.
Tuesday, March 23, 2010
The Azeri Embassy
Nobody knows where anything is in Tashkent. It's not anyone's fault, I'm as directionally challenged as anyone here, but it's rather a result of state-sponsored efforts to promote all things Uzbek since the collapse of the Soviet Union. Incidentally, as I'm writing this I'm sort of watching a sports-talk TV show- just as bad in Russian as they are in English. Anyway, so the promotion of Uzbekism has, among many other things, involved the renaming of city streets, metro-stations and squares to names deemed more appropriate. Apparently some places have beeen renamed more than once with people using multiple names for the same place. For example, my office is on Abdulla Kahor Street however everyone still knows it as Zavodskaya, the old name. The naming combined with an almost total lack of street signs makes getting around a bit difficult.
For example, I need a visa for Azerbaijan. In a couple of weeks a friend and I are going to drive down to Ashgabat in Turkmenistan, head over to the Caspian Sea coast and take a ferry across to Baku, the capital of Azerbaijan. We can get the Turkmen visa at the border but have to get the Azeri visa before we arrive in the country.
So this morning, I found the embassy on a map (with new street names). I then went and talked to my boss who I knew had been there and she told me how to direct the cab based on landmarks. Of course though when I actually got in the taxi the driver just wanted to know generally what part of the city it was in and said he'd ask along the way. Only took two stops actually.
Got there and it was closed. Damnit. They've taken this week off for Navruz (a holiday in this part of the world marking the start of Spring). I did end up speaking to some guy behind the gate who said they'd be open next Monday and that I'd for sure be able to get the visa in one day. Hmmmmm.....
For example, I need a visa for Azerbaijan. In a couple of weeks a friend and I are going to drive down to Ashgabat in Turkmenistan, head over to the Caspian Sea coast and take a ferry across to Baku, the capital of Azerbaijan. We can get the Turkmen visa at the border but have to get the Azeri visa before we arrive in the country.
So this morning, I found the embassy on a map (with new street names). I then went and talked to my boss who I knew had been there and she told me how to direct the cab based on landmarks. Of course though when I actually got in the taxi the driver just wanted to know generally what part of the city it was in and said he'd ask along the way. Only took two stops actually.
Got there and it was closed. Damnit. They've taken this week off for Navruz (a holiday in this part of the world marking the start of Spring). I did end up speaking to some guy behind the gate who said they'd be open next Monday and that I'd for sure be able to get the visa in one day. Hmmmmm.....
Saturday, March 20, 2010
The KHL, Hot Water and Restaurant Variety Shows
TV programming in the former Soviet Union in still mostly in Russian, which actually works out really well for me as it forces me to sit and really listen for an hour or so every evening....maybe a little more. There are a few Uzbek channels too. Although I don't undertand a word of them, I don't know if I would call them hard hitting exactly. Anyway, among the Russian channels I get a couple of news stations, a bunch of stations with predominantly shows dubbed from English (man, sync it up better or at least turn down the volunme on the English, the way they do it it's impossible to understand either language), a I think three sport channel. After, of course, soccer and a lotta biathalon which seems to be be very popular in Russia one of stations also shows KHL games pretty regularly. It's actaully pretty good hockey. The other night I watched Dinamo Riga play the St. Petersburg team (I can't remember their name but it seems like every second team is called Dinamo). It was in Riga, the arena was full, there was lots of hitting and it was a fast, skilled, good game. Alexei Yashin was playing for St. Petersburg and Sandis Ozolinch was playing for Riga. Although he did look a little tipsy (ok, I take that back, I am trying to be politically correct in this blog!)
From reading abou the KHL in the Candadian and even the Russian press I was under the impression that the league wasn't doing that well. But from the games I've seen, the rinks have been full and the hockey's been good. I think it's here to stay (unless there's a house of the oligarchs of course).
Interestingly, Russian sports news will mention the NBA and given daily scores, I have not seen the NHL mentioned once so far.
Ok, the hot water. former Soviet cities have centralized hot water systems- I guess it made sense when the systems were first designed- communal living and all. Anyway, once a year, in spring, the system gets turned off in one section of the city at a time for 3-10 days so the pipes can be cleaned. Another expat, living about two blocks over told myself and the 2-3 of us living on my block earlier this week that her water is now off. Mine still isn't, but something to look forward to soon I think.
Lastly, this past wednesday I had dinner with a few people at an Uzbek restaurant. It was good, but what was really interesting was in the middle of the restaurant a small space was cleared out and a whole troupe of performers but on a full variety show for the whole time we were there. Everything from acrobats to line dancing. It was....unusual.
That's it for now...don't think the trip out of town is going to happen...the weather is terrible. Hopefully soon though.
From reading abou the KHL in the Candadian and even the Russian press I was under the impression that the league wasn't doing that well. But from the games I've seen, the rinks have been full and the hockey's been good. I think it's here to stay (unless there's a house of the oligarchs of course).
Interestingly, Russian sports news will mention the NBA and given daily scores, I have not seen the NHL mentioned once so far.
Ok, the hot water. former Soviet cities have centralized hot water systems- I guess it made sense when the systems were first designed- communal living and all. Anyway, once a year, in spring, the system gets turned off in one section of the city at a time for 3-10 days so the pipes can be cleaned. Another expat, living about two blocks over told myself and the 2-3 of us living on my block earlier this week that her water is now off. Mine still isn't, but something to look forward to soon I think.
Lastly, this past wednesday I had dinner with a few people at an Uzbek restaurant. It was good, but what was really interesting was in the middle of the restaurant a small space was cleared out and a whole troupe of performers but on a full variety show for the whole time we were there. Everything from acrobats to line dancing. It was....unusual.
That's it for now...don't think the trip out of town is going to happen...the weather is terrible. Hopefully soon though.
Sunday, March 14, 2010
GAISHNIKI
So the GAI (Gosudarstvennya Avtomobilnaya Inspektsyya) was the former name of the traffic police in, I think, all of the former Soviet States. In some states (Ukraine? Georgia?) they've been abolished and in others their name has been changed to something in the national language. However, where they do exist the officers are still universally referred to as GAIshniki and, at least in Taskent, they stand at pretty much every intersection. They carry orange batons and wave over passing motorists to, well, shall we say, inspect their documents.
I bring this up because today I had lunch with two Uzbek guys. At the end we were figuring out the cheque (I forgot my wallet- smooth) and one of them said to the other, 'hey, you drove, take out for gas and the GAIshniki.'
Pretty sure I'm gonna remember my wallet next time- yeesh.
I bring this up because today I had lunch with two Uzbek guys. At the end we were figuring out the cheque (I forgot my wallet- smooth) and one of them said to the other, 'hey, you drove, take out for gas and the GAIshniki.'
Pretty sure I'm gonna remember my wallet next time- yeesh.
Saturday, March 13, 2010
Crossing the Streeet
Well, like in many places, sometimes including Vancouver, is terrifying here. At least people are nice enough to honk and flash their lights if they're going to smush you. Keeps you alert.
Anyway, it's been a good week. Unfortunately my internet connection has still not been switched on- from what I got out of the super-fast talking tech guy this morning was that the Internet Provider has to wait for Uzbek Telecom to do something to the phone line before it'll work. And like most big bureacracies, like many in Canada too, they'll do it when they feel like it. Hopefully, hopefully this week.
The work is good. Lots to learn, so it's keeping me busy. I think like learning languages, you never really start to learn about a part of the world until you get there- although I guess drinking lattes in the mall isn't how most Uzbeks are spending their Saturday afternoon.
Have finally got a trip out of the city planned. Myself and a few of the other local ex-pats are going to head to Samarkand next weekend for the long weekend (yup, another one). we'll stay they for a night and then head to the birthplace of Amir Timur (Tamerlane) who, among other things, is Uzbekistan's National Hero.
Hmmm...I think that's about it for now....kind of boring....will try to do some more interesting things before I post again, or at least make some stuff up!
Anyway, it's been a good week. Unfortunately my internet connection has still not been switched on- from what I got out of the super-fast talking tech guy this morning was that the Internet Provider has to wait for Uzbek Telecom to do something to the phone line before it'll work. And like most big bureacracies, like many in Canada too, they'll do it when they feel like it. Hopefully, hopefully this week.
The work is good. Lots to learn, so it's keeping me busy. I think like learning languages, you never really start to learn about a part of the world until you get there- although I guess drinking lattes in the mall isn't how most Uzbeks are spending their Saturday afternoon.
Have finally got a trip out of the city planned. Myself and a few of the other local ex-pats are going to head to Samarkand next weekend for the long weekend (yup, another one). we'll stay they for a night and then head to the birthplace of Amir Timur (Tamerlane) who, among other things, is Uzbekistan's National Hero.
Hmmm...I think that's about it for now....kind of boring....will try to do some more interesting things before I post again, or at least make some stuff up!
Tuesday, March 9, 2010
Going to the Bank
Banking is a bit of an issue here. I did know that but forget what a, well, adventure it could be. There are bank machines here but they do not work with Canadian bank cards. There're ATM's just for doing credit card advances, but they're generally empty- or only work with Mastercard, which I don't have.
So the best way to get cash is to go to a bank, or western-type hotel that has a 'Visa Electron' sign up out front and ask the teller for a cash advance.
Last week I got a ride from someone in the office to the Intercontinental (THE hotel in Tashkent) and did an advance at their exchange office. Anyway, not wanting to bug anyone in the office again and wanting to be somewhat independent, I decided to go this morning to a bank close to the office that I had noticed on the weekend had a 'Visa Electron' sign out. So I set off this morning thinking I'd be back at the office in a half hour- ah yeah. I got there, spoke to the policemen at the front counter (all banks seem to be guarded by police here). I asked about a cash advance, but could see behind him that they just had a machine, which didn't bode well. He asked someone else, who seemed to be working there- neither had any idea. Eventually another cop said that I could go ahead and try the machine, but that it would only dispense Uzbek Sums (the nationaly currency). I said thanks and left. I got in a 'cab' and headed to the Intercontinental on the other side of town (population of Tashkent is 4+ million) where I was told they were currently out of dollars (and I'm talking about US dollars here). Discouraged, I then remembered that the headquarters of the heavily-guarded national bank was right next door. Thinking, 'what the hell' I walked past the barricades and after showing my documents a few times I was told that I could withdraw dollars but that they were going on lunch and I'd have to come back later (we're talking a 40 storey building here). So I hoped in another 'cab' and headed back across town.
Argh, but I needed the money- to pay in dollars after work to the internet provider so I could get my modem and get my internet up and running at my apartment. So I had lunch, thought about it....and went back. Success. And let me tell you, I will not need to go back for a while. Finally I got back to office, apologized to the boss for being gone for 4hours (didn't feel that bad, I am working for free). Anyway, finished up the day, headed with my landlord and her husband to the internet provider (they have to sign a contract for me with the internet provider) and, of course the same person who had said dollars last week (we tried to do this last week but the power was out) now said they wanted only Uzbek Sums. Double argh.
Anyway 10 mins later, the husband (I don't know his name which is why I'm calling him the 'the husband') were on a street corner doing a black-market currency exchance which ended up saving me about $40 dollars- I think....hmmmm....
In the end, it was actually a good day. I got the money, I got the modem. It's all good and all part of the adventure!
So the best way to get cash is to go to a bank, or western-type hotel that has a 'Visa Electron' sign up out front and ask the teller for a cash advance.
Last week I got a ride from someone in the office to the Intercontinental (THE hotel in Tashkent) and did an advance at their exchange office. Anyway, not wanting to bug anyone in the office again and wanting to be somewhat independent, I decided to go this morning to a bank close to the office that I had noticed on the weekend had a 'Visa Electron' sign out. So I set off this morning thinking I'd be back at the office in a half hour- ah yeah. I got there, spoke to the policemen at the front counter (all banks seem to be guarded by police here). I asked about a cash advance, but could see behind him that they just had a machine, which didn't bode well. He asked someone else, who seemed to be working there- neither had any idea. Eventually another cop said that I could go ahead and try the machine, but that it would only dispense Uzbek Sums (the nationaly currency). I said thanks and left. I got in a 'cab' and headed to the Intercontinental on the other side of town (population of Tashkent is 4+ million) where I was told they were currently out of dollars (and I'm talking about US dollars here). Discouraged, I then remembered that the headquarters of the heavily-guarded national bank was right next door. Thinking, 'what the hell' I walked past the barricades and after showing my documents a few times I was told that I could withdraw dollars but that they were going on lunch and I'd have to come back later (we're talking a 40 storey building here). So I hoped in another 'cab' and headed back across town.
Argh, but I needed the money- to pay in dollars after work to the internet provider so I could get my modem and get my internet up and running at my apartment. So I had lunch, thought about it....and went back. Success. And let me tell you, I will not need to go back for a while. Finally I got back to office, apologized to the boss for being gone for 4hours (didn't feel that bad, I am working for free). Anyway, finished up the day, headed with my landlord and her husband to the internet provider (they have to sign a contract for me with the internet provider) and, of course the same person who had said dollars last week (we tried to do this last week but the power was out) now said they wanted only Uzbek Sums. Double argh.
Anyway 10 mins later, the husband (I don't know his name which is why I'm calling him the 'the husband') were on a street corner doing a black-market currency exchance which ended up saving me about $40 dollars- I think....hmmmm....
In the end, it was actually a good day. I got the money, I got the modem. It's all good and all part of the adventure!
Saturday, March 6, 2010
First Week
Well It's been a good first week, really good. I've found an apartment, a really nice apartment. Close to the office too which is excellent!
I spent the first couple of days getting accustomed to the office, meeting people, finding my way around. Seems like a good group. Everyone is very keen on speaking to me in English. I went along with it at first but next week it's all about the Russian!
I'm trying to track down an Uzbek teacher, man it's different from anything I've heard before. Will hopefully be able to get going on that next week.
This is actually a long weekend here, for International Women's Day, which is on Monday- so my first weekend is a long one!
As I hadn't really seen much of the city I started off today (Saturday) by heading into the centre and really just wandering around. Saw a lot of monuments and attractions as well as went to a couple of the bazaars and, of course, the mall.
That's about it for now....as I do more interesting things, or at least things I think are interesting, I'll keep posting!
I spent the first couple of days getting accustomed to the office, meeting people, finding my way around. Seems like a good group. Everyone is very keen on speaking to me in English. I went along with it at first but next week it's all about the Russian!
I'm trying to track down an Uzbek teacher, man it's different from anything I've heard before. Will hopefully be able to get going on that next week.
This is actually a long weekend here, for International Women's Day, which is on Monday- so my first weekend is a long one!
As I hadn't really seen much of the city I started off today (Saturday) by heading into the centre and really just wandering around. Saw a lot of monuments and attractions as well as went to a couple of the bazaars and, of course, the mall.
That's about it for now....as I do more interesting things, or at least things I think are interesting, I'll keep posting!
Tuesday, March 2, 2010
Sketchy
just a short post. I was at the grocery store yesterday and saw a Lincoln Navigator with Kabul licence plates parked out front. Hmmmm......
Monday, March 1, 2010
The Beginning
Ok, I'm here! Yeesh, a bit of long trek, but no worse for wear- I think. After spending Saturday in Toronto I left Pearson on Turkish Airlines for Istanbul. It was ok, about 9:30 hours to get there.
The arrival time in Istanbul was actually perfect as I had just enough time to get to the next gate to board my flight to Tashkent- which was about 4.5 hours.
The Tashkent airport....well, it was actually decently fast. A bit over an hour from the time we landed until I walked out the front door of the airport. The best part was that the TV's in the customs hall were tuned to Euro Sport showing the gold medal game. I think the game was being called by an Australian guy, which was a bit weird. Anyway, needless to say I was jumping up and down and cheering when Crosby got the winner- much the amusement (bemusement?) of the Uzbeks who really didn't seem all the interested in hockey.
I was picked up in one of those classic white UN SUV's with the big, blue 'UN' on the side. Pretty cool. I'm staying in a hotel for the first few days while I look for an apartment.
Met the office yesterday. Not exactly sure what I'll be doing yet, but everyone seems nice and helpful. Saw a few apartments yesterday and will see a few more today. Will probably take a week or so to get internet hooked up in whatever I rent so internet access will be a bit spotty till then.
Anyway, that's about it for now, just heading off to start my first real day of work!
The arrival time in Istanbul was actually perfect as I had just enough time to get to the next gate to board my flight to Tashkent- which was about 4.5 hours.
The Tashkent airport....well, it was actually decently fast. A bit over an hour from the time we landed until I walked out the front door of the airport. The best part was that the TV's in the customs hall were tuned to Euro Sport showing the gold medal game. I think the game was being called by an Australian guy, which was a bit weird. Anyway, needless to say I was jumping up and down and cheering when Crosby got the winner- much the amusement (bemusement?) of the Uzbeks who really didn't seem all the interested in hockey.
I was picked up in one of those classic white UN SUV's with the big, blue 'UN' on the side. Pretty cool. I'm staying in a hotel for the first few days while I look for an apartment.
Met the office yesterday. Not exactly sure what I'll be doing yet, but everyone seems nice and helpful. Saw a few apartments yesterday and will see a few more today. Will probably take a week or so to get internet hooked up in whatever I rent so internet access will be a bit spotty till then.
Anyway, that's about it for now, just heading off to start my first real day of work!
Friday, February 26, 2010
And I'm off!
....well sort of. Have made it as far as Richmond (where YVR is). A bit of a delay, not too big- so far! I'll be flying Vancouver-Toronto-Istanbul-Tashkent. Unfortunately, Uzbek Airways does not fly directly to Vancouver. Maybe some day.
Anyway, hmmmm....not really a lot going on so far. Will post more when I'm in more exotic locales- Toronto counts!
Anyway, hmmmm....not really a lot going on so far. Will post more when I'm in more exotic locales- Toronto counts!
Saturday, February 20, 2010
Getting Ready to Leave
Well it's about a week before departure and I've been thinking I should probably start getting ready. Does anyone have a suitcase I can borrow?
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)